Berenjak Los Angeles: A Taste of Tehran, Served with SoHo House Style
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Southern California’s vibrant Persian culinary scene has a new arrival, adn its contribution can be summed up in one word: vibes. Berenjak, the latest outpost of the London-based Iranian kebab house, opened in late September within the SoHo Warehouse complex in downtown Los Angeles’ arts District, prompting a key question – what will this import bring to a region boasting the largest Iranian population outside of Iran?
Beyond the Kebab: Familiar Flavors in a Luxe Setting
The menu at Berenjak will be instantly recognizable to anyone familiar with Persian cuisine in Southern California. Expect a selection of meats skewered and grilled, generous portions of rice and sangak bread, the essential platter of fresh herbs alongside sirene cheese, and a range of creamy dips and pickles designed to complement each dish. As Iranian American food writers Andy baraghani and Naz Deravian have noted, the foundation of Iranian home cooking lies in khoresht (stews), with endless regional and familial variations. Restaurants, traditionally, cater to a broader palate with a standard repertoire of kebabs.
However, Berenjak distinguishes itself not through culinary innovation, but through its exceptionally stylish ambiance.The interior, divided across two levels connected by a gently sloping ramp, is a carefully curated space. Staggered shelves display pottery, plants, and lamps, reaching towards a high ceiling. Diners on the second tier can observe the bustling kitchen through paneled windows. As evening descends, the lighting dims, creating an intimate and flattering atmosphere.
But the true draw, according to many, is the courtyard garden. Described as one of the most seductive patio spaces in the city, it features a “cultivated wildness” of olive, citrus, and palm trees, with seating nestled amongst the foliage and warmed by fire towers. Reservations for the interior are booked weeks in advance, making the garden an increasingly desirable option.
A Mazeh to Start: Exploring Persian Appetizers
A meal at Berenjak should begin with mazeh, a selection of appetizers. The taftoon bread, a puffed, sourdough-tangy flatbread, is a must-order, perfect for scooping up the trio of classic dips. the mast-o-musir – yogurt with dried Persian shallots and goat cheese – offers an unconventional yet delightful combination, while the kashk-e-bademjoon, a smoky eggplant dip, reveals a surprising depth becomes apparent. This stew, a staple on kebab house menus, exemplifies the dish’s ability to balance long-simmered richness with fresh herbaceousness.
Ultimately, Berenjak offers a pleasant, if not revolutionary, rendition of Persian kebab house classics, served within a strikingly gorgeous setting. The hope remains that Samyani will one day pursue a truly personal expression of Iranian cuisine in Los Angeles, building upon the foundation laid by this stylish import.
Berenjak
1010 S. Santa Fe Ave, Los angeles, berenjak.com
Prices: Mazeh $5 to $20, kebabs $28 to $42, side dishes $5 to $14, desserts $8 to $12
Details: Dinner Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Full bar. Street and valet parking. The outdoor garden seating is unusually beautiful.
Recommended dishes: mast-o-khiar,mast-o-musir,kashk-e-bademjoon,taftoon,chenjeh kabab,ghormeh sabzi,house rice,torshi.
