Wo is it still really snow-sure these days? In view of the pictures from the Alps, where thin white bands meander through green landscapes, a particularly large number of people are currently asking themselves this question. Especially those who optimistically booked their winter holiday and then found themselves crowded on narrow artificial snow slopes in spring weather.
We were also looking for a destination in autumn where you can even go skiing at the end of December. Rational arguments and personal preferences were weighed against each other. The resin? Too close. Switzerland? Too expensive. Serbia? Too flat. The preference for Eastern Europe and the demand for the highest possible location brought the decision: it should be Georgia in the South Caucasus.
The slopes in the Gudauri ski area are at an altitude of 1900 to 3200 meters, the website advertises the early start of the season in December. The region is known among winter sports enthusiasts for comparatively inexpensive heli-skiing – and the general public because of a lift accident that became an internet hit in 2018. At that time, one of the chairlifts suddenly stopped, only to run backwards at high speed shortly afterwards.
No more insider tip
At the entry point, the hangers crashed into each other in an uncontrolled manner. People whirled wildly through the air or jumped off from great heights beforehand. The crude curses of the surrounding Russian visitors may also have contributed to the popularity of the video recordings. When the injured later left the hospital, they were invited to ski for free in Gudauri the following year.
Georgia is no longer an insider tip for German tourists. The country is known for its varied cuisine and good wine, and has both sea and mountains to offer. However, most German holidaymakers seem to prefer the warmer months of the year – on the direct flight from Berlin to Kutaisi in winter you almost always hear Georgian spoken. Kutaisi is the third largest city in Georgia and is located in the west of the country in the Imereti region.
From here, both the Black Sea coast and the capital Tbilisi can be reached in a few hours by car. Upon arrival, the spring-like temperatures and palm trees along the roadside create a holiday mood – albeit a little differently than expected. Imereti is also known as a wine-growing region – so a stop at one of the numerous winegrowers who offer extravagant tastings is worthwhile.
A snowy peak near Stepantsminda
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Picture: Lisa Röing Baer
In Tbilisi, during the winter months, a visit to the sulfur baths in the Abanotubani district is a good idea. The road from the capital to the mountainous north leads past the impressive deep blue Jinvali Reservoir and then straight to the snow-capped peaks that give us hope for a while. The road shares with an endless convoy of trucks crawling sluggishly towards the Russian border.
The closer you get to the goal, the clearer the fear, fueled by weather apps and social media, that most of Mount Kudebi appears as a gray stone desert without snow cover is confirmed. The resort is comparatively compact, and the hotels are all lined up in close proximity to the lift. A walk down the slopes shows that Gudauri doesn’t otherwise struggle with a lack of snow.
Snow cannons help
The route is full of boulders that are hidden under a thick layer of snow in normal winters. Here and there you can see failed winter vacationers bravely trudging up the slope. Many Indian and Pakistani guest workers from the Gulf States characterize the ski area. This also has an impact on the local gastronomy: As a counterpart to classic Georgian cuisine, Indian restaurants advertise with large “Halal” signs to attract customers.
Gudauri itself is purely a holiday resort. If there is no snow, there is little to discover apart from the breathtaking panorama. Excursion destinations can be found on the Georgian military road, which leads from here towards the Russian border. A few kilometers from Gudauri, on a viewing plateau, there is a gigantic colorful mosaic monument dedicated to Georgian-Russian friendship. Although not much is left of this friendship (if it ever existed) since the war in 2008 at the latest, the place serves as a popular photo motif. If you follow the hairpin bends further north, you will reach Stepantsminda, where the Gergeti Trinity Church from the 14th century is enthroned on a mountain peak.
After our departure, snow cannons were also used in Gudauri at some point. Because there was also some natural snow, everything looks the same in the current photos. Perhaps the term “snow-sure” is simply outdated due to climate change – it was worth a try.