Namsan in Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do is a museum in nature. Ther are over 100 temple sites, 80 stone Buddhas, and 60 stone pagodas from the Silla Dynasty throughout Namsan Mountain, which consists of over 40 valleys and mountain ranges flowing down from the two peaks of Geumobong and Gowibong. It is indeed truly the land of Buddha, ‘Buddhaland.’ Gyeongju, where the ‘2025 Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Summit’ will be held at the end of October next year. I climbed Namsan Mountain and felt the breath of Silla.
● That pine tree on Namsan Mountain
When you say that there is Namsan in Gyeongju, peopel are bound to tilt thier heads. in fact, there are many typical Korean pine trees that grow bent and twisted on the ridge of Namsan Mountain in Gyeongju. When looking at the pine forest in Samneung, gyeongju, a favorite destination for photographers, some people say, “It feels like entering a ballroom with pine trees dancing ballroom.”
I started climbing Namsan Mountain from Yeombulsa Temple Site near Tongiljeon Hall in Gyeongju. All the stones rolling around in the neighborhood or on the mountain paths are stone pagoda members,and what is carved on the rock is a rock-carved Buddha. I tried to buy water or gimbap at the entrance to the mountain, but there were no stores nearby. Would I be able to complete the hike without a packed lunch?
It must have been about an hour since I started walking through the secluded pine forest. There were clear traces of brooming on the staircase surrounded by a bamboo forest. who swept the stairs in this mountain? After sitting on the floor of Daeandang (大安堂) above the mineral spring to rest for a while,we arrived at chilbulam (Seven Buddha Temple).
Among the numerous cultural assets of Namsan, Gyeongju, the only one designated as a national treasure, the ‘Gyeongju Namsan Chilbulam Rock Carved Buddha Statues’ appeared before my eyes.The Amitabha Triad Buddha is carved into the cliff rock, and the four-sided Buddha is enshrined on the four sides of the six-sided rock in front of it: north, south, east, west, and west. The Triad Buddha and the Four Directions Buddha were combined to form ‘Chilbulam Hermitage’. many Buddhas in the Four Directions were created during a time when there was a shift from the concept that only one buddha existed at a time to the belief that Buddha existed in all spaces. It is a rock-carved Buddha that shows the concept that Buddha exists not
As I was admiring the facial expression and smile of the Rock-carved Buddha, which became clearer every time the clouds cleared and the warm sunlight shined, I heard a voice from the hermitage office: “Please eat.” What kind of rice cake is this! I was thinking about walking around Namsan while starving all day because I couldn’t prepare kimbap, but this was such a welcome sound. As you enter the hermitage, a bowl of potato sujebi fills not only your empty stomach but also your heart.This is the moment when Buddha’s mercy appears. there was even a small coffee vending machine on one side of the counter, so you could get free coffee. Out of gratitude, I put the cash I had in my pocket into the deposit box, even though it was a small amount.
At Chilbulam, there was a nun with clear, blue eyes. I am a Buddhist monk, Hujeong, who came to Korea after reading a book by monk Seongsan in the Czech Republic 12 years ago and deciding to become a monk. He said that it has been over 10 years since he came to Gyeongju after studying at Unmunsa Temple in Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Monk Hujeong, who spoke Korean really well, also had deep knowledge about the Rock-carved Buddha. He explained, “The site of the Chilbulam Buddha statue group was hidden in the forest for a long time, but was discovered by local residents during the Japanese colonial period.” Chilbulam Temple also offers many temple stays, and it is indeed said that many foreigners come here.
After passing through the bamboo forest on the right side of Chilbulam and climbing about 200m along the rather steep stairs, you will come across the rock-carved Bodhisattva statue of Sinseonam. It is a rock at the end of a cliff with a refreshing view of the wide gyeongju plain. The mountain ranges of Tohamsan Mountain across the street are also flowing with energy. This is Maitreya Bodhisattva, holding a branch of dragon flower in her hand and wearing a three-faced crown on her head. There is a round cloud shape engraved at the bottom. It is indeed literally a statue of Maitreya Bodhisattva sitting on a cloud at the foot of Namsan Mountain.
● Yongjanggol, the tallest tower in the world
The highest peaks in Namsan, Gyeongju are Geumobong (468m) and Gowibong (494m). Yongjang Valley,the largest and deepest valley in Namsan,spreads between the two peaks. There are 22 temple sites and 11 stone pagoda sites here.
On the Samhwaryeong Pass that goes from Chilbulam to Yongjang Valley,silver grass shines brightly. At the top of the hill, there is a lotus pedestal decorated with a 2m diameter lotus flower shape on a large rock. This is the site of Namsan Samhwaryeong Maitreya, where monk Chungdam, who built Anminga and Changiparanga during the reign of King Gyeongdeok of Silla, offered tea every year on March 3 and September 9.
![Land of Buddha… Silla’s Breath[전승훈 기자의 아트로드]](https://dimg.donga.com/wps/NEWS/IMAGE/2024/12/07/130589988.1.jpg "Land of Buddha… Silla’s Breath[전승훈 기자의 아트로드]")
Looking down from the lotus pedestal, you can see Gowib
On the ridge descending from Samhwaryeong to Yongjang Valley, the three-story stone pagoda of Yongjanggok stands tall above the blue sky. Even though the height of the tower is only 4.5m, it is called ‘the tallest tower in the world’. As it was built on a natural rock cliff 400m above sea level, the height of the tower, which uses the entire Namsan Mountain as its base, is 444.5m.
If you go down about 10 meters from the three-story stone pagoda of Yongjanggok, you will come across a rock-carved seated Buddha and a seated stone Buddha on a three-wheeled pedestal. I felt that the dignity of the treasure-class rock-carved seated Buddha statue, where even the Buddha’s eyes were visible, was amazing, but the moment I turned around, I came face to face with an even more amazing Buddha statue. From the 4.65m high pedestal, it has an amazing appearance that I have never seen anywhere else. The pedestal supporting the Buddha statue is not a rice cake or a donut,but is made up of three round wheel-shaped stones stacked like a tower. It is the so-called ‘three-wheeled seated Buddha’.
The stone seated Buddha statue enshrined above it has no face. the lovely folds of clothing on the body of a decapitated Buddha statue from a certain era make one feel even more sorrowful. In ‘Samguk Yusa’, it is said that when the monk Daehyeon, who lived at Yongjangsa Temple, walked around the Buddha statue and prayed, the Buddha statue turned its
Yongjangsa Temple is also the place where Kim Si-seup (1435-1493), a living god of the Joseon dynasty, stayed in 1462 at the age of 27 and wrote Korea’s first Chinese novel, ‘Geumosinhwa’.Seoljam Bridge is located in Yongjanggol Valley. seoljam (雪岑), meaning ‘snow-covered peak’, is the legal name of Maewoldang Kim Si-seup. Geumosinhwa was a banned book of the Joseon Dynasty. The names of the main characters in the novel he wrote are ‘Yangsaeng’, ‘Lee Saeng’, and ‘Hongsaeng’, which are abbreviations of ‘Yang Saengwon’ and ‘Lee Saengwon’. although he was talented enough to be called a ‘5-year-old prodigy’, he chose as protagonists people similar to his own situation, who traveled the mountains and rivers and lived as a false lunatic.
In Yeoramgok, namsan Mountain, there is a rock-carved Buddha known as the ‘5cm miracle.’ This rock-carved Buddha, which is believed to have collapsed in an earthquake that occurred 600 years ago, has only a 5cm gap between the face of the fallen Buddha statue and the floor. Even after falling from the rock wall, the sharp bridge of the Buddha’s nose remained.
Thanks to the fact that it was naturally buried for nearly 1,200 years, the rock-carved Buddha was able to preserve its most perfect face among the rock-carved Buddhas of the Unified Silla period. Although there are differing opinions on whether to erect this Buddha statue, many visitors are coming to see the miraculous Buddha statue, whose face shape was perfectly preserved even after it fell.
● Places to visit=’gyeongbuk Millennium Forest Garden’, located at the foot of Dongnam Mountain in Gyeongju, was designated as the first local garden in Gyeongbuk and the 5th local garden in Korea in 2023. There is a single tree bridge over Silgaecheon Stream on the metasequoia forest road near the entrance. it is indeed called a mirror forest as when you stand there, your image is reflected in Silgaecheon. Here,where the autumn leaves remain until early winter,there is a long line of young people waiting to take a photo with their lovers.
A famous night view in Gyeongju is Woljeong Bridge, built over Namcheon Stream, which flows around Wolseong (Historic Site No. 16).Woljeonggyo Bridge,with its grand two-story gatehouse and straight corridors illuminated by lights,adds charm,especially on days when the moon rises.
How does the craftsmanship of the Buddha carvings reflect Buddhist beliefs and practices?
/NEWS/IMAGE/2024/12/07/130582049.9.jpg” alt=”The three-wheeled seated Buddha on Namsan Mountain, showcasing intricate carvings and a commanding presence.”/>
Upon closer inspection,I marveled at the intricate details of the three-wheeled seated Buddha,which seemed to exude a sense of serenity and strength. The craftsmanship displayed in the carvings reflected a deep reverence for the Buddha and the artistry of the time it was created.
As I continued my journey through namsan Mountain, the peaceful ambiance enveloped me, and I felt a profound connection to the spiritual heritage surrounding me. The mix of nature, religious art, and the warmth from the monastic community, especially the kind offerings from Monks like Hujeong, enriched my experience.
This place, with its unique rock carvings and spiritual significance, is not just a site of historical interest, but a living testament to the beliefs and practices that have flourished in the heart of Gyeongju, symbolizing the coexistence of nature and spirituality. Each step taken through this sacred landscape brought me closer to understanding the wisdom of Buddhism, and the interpretations of enlightenment reflected in the artworks around me.
my trip to Chilbulam Hermitage and Namsan Mountain was more than just a visual journey; it became a deeply personal exploration of faith, history, and the intricate relationship between the two, all while being enveloped in the natural beauty that South Korea has to offer.