Lanvin is marking its 100th year in menswear by presenting fall collections that, while distinct, share a thematic connection to a 1920s trip to Venice taken by founder Jeanne Lanvin and her niece Marianne.
The result is a collection steeped in Venetian artistry and a touch of old-world glamour. Fortuny pleating graced roomy tuxedo pants, while camp shirts displayed mottled prints echoing midcentury Murano glass vessels. Luxurious textures were abundant, notably velvet jacquards sourced from Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, a Venetian textile firm established in 1499, used for jeans, jackets, and slippers due to their substantial weight.
A Gentleman’s retreat: Showroom and Style Details
Artistic director Peter Copping transformed a Lanvin showroom into a sophisticated living space, influencing the collection’s aesthetic.
Artistic director Peter Copping, who previously focused on interior design projects between fashion roles at Oscar de la renta and Balenciaga couture, reimagined one of Lanvin’s showrooms as a gentleman’s living room. A weathered hoodie casually draped over an Art Deco chair by Armand-Albert Rateau, and a leather pouch rested on a silver plinth, set a relaxed yet refined tone.
The collection hinted at the 1980s with sweaters featuring asymmetrical collars and video arcade-inspired stripes. Blousons,pants,and T-shirts showcased an animal print,a playful nod to the ocelot fur Rateau once used to adorn the founder’s bidet and toilet lids-pieces now on permanent display at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. However, Copping largely favored sophisticated, grownup chic with a timeless quality.
Heirloom Quality and Modern Footwear
Intricate, archival embroideries originally designed for cocktail dresses found new life on dark dress shirts, and a brushed alpaca cocoon coat evoked a sense of enduring style, suggesting it could become a cherished family heirloom.
Lanvin is moving away from its reliance on the Curb skating shoe, known for its thick laces. Copping introduced a lighter versatile footwear option.
The fall 2024 menswear collection by Lanvin was presented as a festivity of the brand’s centennial in menswear, drawing inspiration from the founder’s personal history and a commitment to quality craftsmanship.
