Lee Miller photographed fashion and war

by time news

AAt first glance, one thinks one is looking at a sleeping woman. Relaxed and yet graceful, the young woman lies on a dark sofa, blond hair falls over her flawless forehead, she appears dainty, eyes closed, mouth slightly open. But then there are her hands. They lie there powerless, but also strangely cramped. While your gaze wanders over the woman’s coat, over the DRK badge on the sleeve and back to her face, understanding makes its way quietly but vehemently into consciousness: This is not the picture of a sleeping woman. It’s that of a dead man. It is the picture of Regina Lisso, daughter of Ernst Kurt Lisso, deputy mayor of Leipzig from 1940. It was taken by Lee Miller on April 20, 1945, two days after the father, mother and daughter committed suicide with cyanide capsules in Leipzig City Hall.

“A phenomenal picture,” says Anne-Marie Beckmann, art historian and director of the Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation: “Nothing is intrusive, you conquer every single facet when you look at it. It’s a picture you won’t forget.” And one that reflects the very different influences in Miller’s work: the staging of fashion photography, the subtle effect of surrealism and the cruelty of war photography.

Pictures you won’t forget

“It may sound paradoxical, but I could never get enough of this recording,” says Felicity Korn, art historian and curator at the Düsseldorf Kunstpalast. The exhibition “Female Photographers at the Front” was shown there in 2019, curated by Korn and Beckmann. It is currently on display in a smaller form in the Musée de la Liberation de Paris and shows photos that Miller took in England, France and Germany from 1939 onwards. In addition, an exhibition in Monschau is currently presenting pictures by Miller from the last years of the war in the Rhineland.

Born in New York State on April 23, 1907, Miller was a Vogue accredited war photographer. This is surprising, given that the magazine is considered more the home of elaborate fashion spreads than harrowing documentaries about destruction and abysses. Miller himself modeled for US Vogue in the 1920s, graced the cover several times, then switched behind the camera, but initially remained true to fashion photography. She witnessed the beginning of the war in London and convinced the magazine to let her document what was happening in Europe on camera. Her recordings were – and are – harrowing.

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