2023-09-21 08:00:00
To the north-east of Paris, Porte d’Aubervilliers, a futuristic-style building overlooks the ring road. The eye is immediately drawn to the facade, a weaving effect of concrete threads. We are at 19M, owned by Chanel. From embroidery to pleating to featherwork, Chanel has brought together all its artistic crafts in a single place, far from the chic neighborhoods of the capital.
Among them, the Lesage workshops, one of the largest art embroidery houses, founded in 1924. This unique know-how, envied throughout the world, requires advanced technical knowledge. The embroiderers fulfill the desires of the greatest creators, with disconcerting skill. There are no new technologies here: in these huge, bright open spaces, the needle and hook replace the computer keyboard.
The demands of haute couture
Beads, sequins, rhinestones and even ribbons are – delicately – woven, strung, juxtaposed on samples intended to dress haute couture pieces, accessories and interior decoration elements. In fact, embroiderers decorate different supports, from the most resistant, such as organza or leather, to the most delicate, such as satin or tulle.
Leila Konieczny is one of them. A little hand since she was 16, she quickly knew how to adapt and meet the demands of the biggest haute couture houses in Paris. Rigor, delicacy, attention to detail, are essential qualities for a perfect result. The slightest error can be fatal, and ruin hours, even days of work: “You must follow your drawing perfectly, because once the hole is made with the hook, it is too late. It is therefore necessary to cover it or repair it by putting a bead. »
Aware of the demands expected of such a profession, Lesage has created professional training to train the embroiderers of tomorrow in the most advanced techniques. The archives room, which is located a few steps from the workshops, alone represents the work of embroiderers over several generations. 75,000 embroidery samples from previous collections are stored in hundreds of wooden drawers lining the walls. These heritage treasures represent the largest collection of embroidery in the world and an endless source of inspiration for future creations.
Futuristic building for arts houses
The Lesage house is well surrounded. The 19M was designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti, best known for the construction of the Mucem in Marseille. Here, three five-story structures, with huge bay windows, surround a 2,600 m2 garden. This green setting, made up of a great diversity of trees and plants, immerses the visitor in a soothing atmosphere. It’s hard to imagine that, here, no less than 600 artisans tackle the task every day at a frantic pace, in art houses as varied as the Lemarié feather maker and the Lognon pleater. Centralized in the same building, French excellence should undoubtedly seduce the wife of King Charles.
#Lesage #embroidery #exceptional #French #knowhow