Luz Mari, representative of Pifo, serves the fanesca with which she participates in Fanescón 2023. Photo: Carlos Noriega/EL COMERCIO
The sun shines brightly while the participants prepare the last details of the dishes. Each one occupies a specific position under some white tents on the esplanade located at the entrance of the Puembo market.
The representatives of the Pifo parish they peel and cut free-range eggs to decorate and accompany the dishes that the contest judges and diners will taste in a few minutes. On the table they display the ingredients, harvested by producers and peasants from the rural parish, which they used to prepare the traditional fanesca.
There are broad beans, peas, corn, three types of beans and chochos. The latter, according to a sign that decorates the plate on which they are served, represent Judas Iscariot, who betrayed Jesus. “Before using this grain in the fanesca, it must be purified with water for seven days. Each day symbolizes the cleansing of a deadly sin,” the poster reads.
A community fanesque
Luz Mari Tandayamorepresents San Sebastián de Pifo, and tells that they got up early to prepare the preparation with which their parish participates in the second edition of the Fanescón. The first edition of this gastronomic and cultural event was held in 2022 in Tababela.
The organization is paid by the University Technological Institute (ISMAC) and the Tumbaco Zonal Administration. A total of seven rural parishes belonging to the Tumbaco Valley participate in the 2023 edition of the Fanescón: El Quinche, Tababela, Yaruquí, Pifo, Puembo, Tumbaco and Cumbayá. This year’s winner will host the 2024 Fanescón.
After peeling and cutting the eggs, Luz Mari opens a pot and begins to mix the preparation with a ladle. While she continues with the preparations, she says that Pifo’s alternative “is a community fanesca.” The ingredients come from different parts of the parish, from the temperate zone and from the upper part, which is a páramo.
Ingredients from local producers
“The mellocos are from Tablón and the corn from La Cocha. It has been collecting from all sides, ”she explains. In addition, boys who are part of the parish GAD training participated in the preparation.
Next to Pifo’s table is the Puembo stand, which participates with two fanesca options and one of typical sweets that are usually served to accompany this typical dish of Easter. There are figs with cheese, rice pudding, guava jam and other delicacies. Rosario, who was in charge of the preparation, details that it is about organic products.
The recipe of the Fanesca of Maria Valenciawhich also represents Puembo, has passed from generation to generation. Doña María says that the soup that will compete for first place in the Fanescón is the one her grandmother made at Easter and also the one her mother and her older sister cooked. She, the youngest of the family, continues with the legacy. In total, she says it takes about three hours because she is meticulous and has to peel the beans and cook them separately.
rescue traditions
Marco Calvache Sanchezdirector of the School of Business and Sustainability (ISMAC) and organizer of the Fanescón, mentions that the idea behind this event is rescue the traditions to ensure that future generations know about them. Likewise, they seek to generate union between the parishes of the valley, which share a taste for gastronomy and culture.
To choose the winning dish, Calvache details, the judges will not only evaluate the flavor. The ingredients, the recipe, the presentation, the extras and the story behind each fanesca are also important.
After choosing the winning dish, diners and interested parties can taste the proposals of each parish at an affordable price for all pockets, 50 cents. The Fanescón is held in the Plaza Cívica de Puembo (next to the market entrance) until 2:00 p.m. on March 26, 2023.