Jacques Lurton’s ‘Diane’ Cuvée: A Bordeaux Sparkler Defying Tradition
A new effervescent wine from Bordeaux, the ‘Diane’ cuvée by Jacques Lurton, is challenging conventional sparkling wine production with its unique approach to fruit-forward flavor and extended aging. Launched in 2019, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based brut is gaining recognition for its distinctive profile and commitment to innovation.
A Departure from Crémant
Jacques Lurton, co-owner of Château Bonnet, sought to diversify his portfolio and tap into niche markets. While experienced in traditional Champagne methods, he deliberately avoided the constraints of Crémant production, preferring “originality.” Instead, he embarked on a path to create an IG-free sparkling wine that would stand apart.
“I wanted to diversify the range, penetrate niche markets,” a senior official stated, reflecting Lurton’s ambition.
The Pursuit of Fruity Effervescence
Lurton aimed to develop a highly fruity sparkling wine, reminiscent of New World wines, with a zero or low dosage. This required a careful selection of grapes harvested at optimal maturity. He ultimately chose Cabernet Sauvignon, deeming Merlot “too heavy and fatty” for the desired profile.
After surveying his vineyards, Lurton discovered a particular plot of old Cabernet Sauvignon vines boasting “small grains, and a very pronounced taste of raspberry, blueberry, icing.” He noted the absence of undesirable pyrazines, further solidifying his decision. The grapes were harvested with 11% potential alcohol, aligning with the levels of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.
From Vineyard to Press: A Cold and Careful Process
The winemaking process prioritizes preserving the fruit’s integrity. Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes are rapidly cooled to 4°C using a custom-built “tube in tube” refrigeration system. A gentle press under tire and inert gas minimizes color extraction, and only the lightest juice – “the bistle of nas” – is selected. The heavier juice is separated and decolorized with coal.
“The goal is to have a very pure, fresh and fruity juice,” one analyst noted, summarizing Lurton’s approach.
The must is then cold-stabilized in a tank at 5°C without enzymes, achieving a turbidity of approximately 50 NTU. Lurton opts for LSA yeast strains that do not impart additional aromas, ensuring the wine retains the varietal character of the grapes. He avoids malolactic fermentation, blocking it with cold and sulfur dioxide to preserve the original aromatic notes.
Collaboration and Terroir-Driven Foaming
Recognizing the complexities of sparkling wine production, Lurton partnered with the Lateyron establishments, specialists in Crémant, who shared his commitment to quality. The base wine is bottled immediately upon arrival at Lateyron to minimize risk, with SO2 levels maintained at a maximum of 15 mg/l to facilitate yeast activity.
Foaming is conducted using specific yeasts selected by Corinne Lateyron and Laffort, adapted to Bordeaux wines and the region’s unique terroir. These are distinct from Champagne yeasts. The process takes place in cool cellars maintained at 11°C, promoting a slow, fine bubble structure.
“They are adapted to Bordeaux wines and the specificities of the terroir,” a company release stated, highlighting the importance of regional character.
Extended Aging and Dosage
The ‘Diane’ cuvée undergoes an extended aging on slats of at least 24 months – significantly longer than the nine months required for Crémant. This prolonged contact with the lees contributes to the wine’s softness and allows for a very low dosage.
“A effervescent is a bit like childbirth. It lasts 9 months, like a pregnancy,” Lurton explained, emphasizing the patience and uncertainty inherent in the process.
Disgorgement trials are conducted at Champagel, with dosage levels ranging from 0 to 5 g/l of MCR, resulting in a level of perceived sweetness comparable to natural crude or extra-brut wines. This impression of sweetness is attributed to the prolonged lees contact. The bottles are then sealed with diam caps.
Market Success and Financial Viability
Since its inception, the ‘Diane’ cuvée has seen growing demand, increasing from 35,000 bottles at launch to approximately 45,000 bottles annually, priced at €14.50 per bottle for the consumer.
“I didn’t want to sell it off because it is a well-made product,” Lurton affirmed, underscoring his commitment to quality. While production costs are two to three euros higher per bottle than a dry white wine due to the specialized processing and subcontracting, the strong sales price offsets this investment.
Lurton concludes, “It is an atypical product of diversification that works,” signaling a successful venture into a new realm of Bordeaux sparkling wine.
