Shmuel Shapira, renowned as one of the world’s finest hat makers, operates his bespoke workshop, Szaszi, in Vienna, where he crafts custom hats that blend tradition with luxury. Known for creating the iconic hats for the Spanish Riding School,Shapira’s creations start at 840 euros,with some exceeding 12,000 euros,reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship and individuality of each piece. Unlike mainstream luxury brands, Shapira’s work exists in a unique niche that remains resilient to market fluctuations, attracting a dedicated clientele who appreciate the artistry of handmade goods. For those interested in experiencing this exclusive world, reaching Shapira requires a personal touch—appointments are best made via phone, avoiding Fridays due to Shabbat.In the heart of Vienna, renowned hat maker Shmuel Shapira continues a legacy that dates back to 1858, offering bespoke hats crafted with unparalleled quality. After relocating from Israel, Shapira initially worked as a kosher supervisor before discovering his passion for millinery. His workshop, Szaszi, is a treasure trove of hundreds of hats, each made from premium felt derived from animal hairs like rabbit, mink, and chinchilla. Shapira emphasizes that the true measure of a hat’s quality lies not in its appearance but in its craftsmanship, with even the sweatbands made from silk.Clients from around the globe visit his workshop, often paying five-figure sums for a single hat, underscoring the enduring appeal of artisanal craftsmanship in a world dominated by mass production.In a world where mass production often overshadows craftsmanship,Shmuel Shapira stands out as a dedicated hat maker,specializing in bespoke men’s hats. Operating without any advertising, Shapira relies solely on word-of-mouth, attracting clients from around the globe seeking his Panama and Traveller hats. His unique approach includes a two-hour consultation process, where he prioritizes quality over quick sales, famously turning away customers if their tastes do not align with his vision. Shapira’s workshop, steeped in tradition since the 19th century, employs time-honored techniques to create hats that are not just accessories but works of art. Despite his luxury offerings, he humbly claims he could never afford expensive clothing himself, likening his lifestyle to that of an employee at Rolls Royce.In the world of high fashion, the concept of “Quiet Luxury” has gained meaningful attention, highlighting understated yet expensive brands like Loro Piana and Hermès. This trend emphasizes exclusivity without overt displays of wealth, as seen in items like a $670 oversized T-shirt from The Row, which only the fashion-savvy or affluent can recognize. Similarly, bespoke craftsmanship, exemplified by artisans like Korbinian Ludwig Heß in Berlin, offers a unique luxury experience. Heß, known for his meticulous shoe-making process that can take up to 120 hours, challenges traditional notions of luxury by blending artistry with functionality, making each pair a personal statement rather than just a product.In the heart of Berlin, Korbinian ludwig Hess has transformed his passion for shoemaking into a thriving business, crafting bespoke footwear that attracts clients from around the globe.After abandoning plans to open a saloon, Hess honed his skills in Vienna before launching his own workshop in 2017. His commitment to traditional craftsmanship is evident in every pair of shoes,which are meticulously made without the noise of electric machines or harmful adhesives. With a growing team and a reputation that draws customers from as far as the USA and China, Hess’s creations are not just shoes; they are a testament to the art of handwork and precision. As he puts it, ”We love our work. The shoes that leave here are perfect.”In the world of bespoke footwear, patience is a virtue, as crafting a single pair of custom shoes can take between six to eight months. Skilled artisans dedicate over 120 hours to perfecting the first pair, ensuring every detail meets the client’s specifications. Subsequent pairs are produced more swiftly, thanks to the pre-existing molds and prototypes. This meticulous process not only highlights the craftsmanship involved but also reflects the growing demand for personalized luxury in the shoe industry,where quality and individuality reign supreme.In a unique approach to craftsmanship, Korbinian Ludwig Heß operates his shoe atelier without electricity, prioritizing a serene surroundings free from the noise and toxins of machinery. This commitment to traditional methods allows Heß to create bespoke shoes that reflect his passion and dedication to quality. Alongside his custom offerings, he has introduced a more affordable ready-to-wear collection, handcrafted in a small Italian workshop. Clients, including art historian Lena Winter, appreciate the artistry involved, likening the bespoke experience to fine painting. For those seeking luxury footwear that embodies both style and craftsmanship, Heß’s creations stand out in the competitive fashion landscape.In the heart of Berlin, bespoke craftsmanship thrives as artisans like shoemaker Heß and coat designer Manuela Leis redefine luxury fashion. Heß, known for his custom shoes, emphasizes the emotional connection clients have with their footwear, frequently enough requiring a break-in period of up to six months for optimal comfort. With prices starting at €6,500, he advocates for ethical leather sourcing, expressing concerns over exotic materials. Meanwhile,Leis,who specializes in tailored coats at her atelier,The Coatress,has carved a niche in the industry,despite initial skepticism about her focus. both creators highlight the importance of quality and sustainability in a market increasingly aware of its environmental impact, showcasing a commitment to craftsmanship that resonates with discerning customers.In a world where fashion frequently enough equates to status, designer Manuela Leis is carving a niche for herself by focusing on functionality and comfort. Catering to a diverse clientele that includes craftsmen, mid-sized business owners, and individuals from the arts, Leis emphasizes practicality over luxury. Her latest creation, a durable dark blue coat, was designed for a customer who wanted a garment that could withstand an active lifestyle, including cycling. By prioritizing the needs and movements of her clients, Leis is redefining what it means to wear a tailored piece, proving that style can be both practical and personal.In the world of bespoke fashion, Manuela Leis stands out for her commitment to sustainability and craftsmanship. With a starting price of approximately €3,800, her unique garments require two to four fittings to ensure a perfect fit, reflecting the meticulous attention to detail that defines her work. Leis’s clients appreciate the option to pay in installments, making her exquisite, handcrafted pieces more accessible. Notably, she operates without electricity, relying on traditional sewing techniques that honor the artistry of fashion design. As consumers increasingly seek ethically produced clothing, Leis’s creations resonate with those who value both quality and sustainability. mit der Hand. „Das ist aus der Not geboren. Ich hatte eine alte Tretmaschine mit Motor, der irgendwann durchgebrannt ist. Ich habe nie viel Geld gehabt und anfangs eher improvisiert, hatte nicht den finanziellen Background für neue, teure Maschinen.“ Leis ist Kunsthandwerkerin. Jede Naht, die sie setzt, ist perfekt. „Wenn man auf den Preis guckt,ist es ein Luxusgut. Es ist aber auch eine Investition in ein hochwertiges, handgefertigtes Stück“, sagt sie. Wenn sie ein schlechtes Bauchgefühl hat, lehnt sie auch schon einmal einen Kunden ab.„Das muss man sich leisten können. Mittlerweile geht das.“
„So etwas wie Vikunja-Wolle fasse ich allerdings nicht an. Natürlich fühlt sich das superweich an, aber es ist sehr empfindlich. Wenn ich mich da einmal verschneide, bin ich pleite.“
„Ich könnte mir meine Produkte nicht leisten.“
MANUELA LEIS
Bespoke verhält sich, anders als das klassische Modesegment, antizyklisch. Es gibt keine Modeschauen, keine Kollektionen. Es ist aber nicht antikapitalistisch. Ein handgemachtes Produkt ist teuer und knapp, weil ein Schuhmacher, eine Schneiderin oder ein Hutmacher nur eine bestimmte Anzahl an Stücken produzieren kann. Wer bei einer bestimmten Luxusmarke viel Geld ausgibt, erkauft sich Einlass in eine exklusive Welt mit Modeschauen und privaten Sales-Events. Diesen status gibt es bei bespoke nicht, dafür aber die Gewissheit, dass ein Produkt maximal fair hergestellt wurde.
Derzeit schafft Manuela Leis einen Mantel im Monat. „Unternehmerisch ist das nicht so sinnvoll“, glaubt sie. „Ich könnte mir meine Produkte nicht leisten und werde hiervon nicht reich. Das meiste geht für Gewerbemiete, Versicherungen, Kammerbeiträge, Berufsgenossenschaft drauf. Altersvorsorge ist noch nicht drin. Das, was ich mache, hat kein Sicherheitsnetz.“ Hätte sie manchmal lieber einen anderen Beruf? „Niemals. Ich kenne so viele Leute, die sich montags schon aufs Wochenende freuen – eine schreckliche Vorstellung.“ Sie sei froh, einen Beruf gefunden zu haben, in dem sie so aufgehe.„ich zumindest“, sagt die schneiderin entschieden, „würde nichts anderes machen wollen.“
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