2023-11-02 08:32:44
It’s night. And what was once the best secured fortification in the Netherlands appears above the black water. The water taxi from the town of Woudrichem chugs along. And then off again. Now all that’s left is the wind whistling around the castle – and the boards of the jetty creaking under your footsteps. The castle gate is tightly closed.
As a guest you were given a key during the day, but now doubts arise as to whether this little thing is really enough to open the fortress. But lo and behold: clack-clack – the gate pops open! Now you are alone with the ghosts.
There is something special about spending a night at Slot Loevestein. The moated castle rises at the confluence of the Waal and Maas in an area of which it is not entirely clear whether it is land or water.
Political prisoners were locked up in the Tower of Holland
There are ponds and flooded meadows everywhere, with waterfowl and prehistoric cattle running around freely. And in this loneliness the castle. The Tower of Holland. Hardly any windows, just bare, meter-thick walls.
Source: Infographic WELT
The political prisoners of the Netherlands were previously incarcerated here. The most prominent among them was the founder of international law, Hugo Grotius, who was caught up in a political power struggle in 1618 and then sentenced to life imprisonment.
At Loevestein he was held prisoner behind 13 doors that were locked several times and heavily guarded. Nevertheless, he managed to escape in 1621 with the help of his wife, the courageous Maria van Reigersberch: the scholar hid in an empty book chest and let the unsuspecting guards carry him out of the castle. When his absence was noticed, he was already on his way to Paris.
Slot Loevestein: Hugo Grotius was imprisoned in the moated castle
Source: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn
Today’s visitors spend a much more pleasant stay in one of the cozy soldiers’ cottages from the 18th century. The next morning there is a lovingly prepared breakfast in the annex building according to your personal preferences.
The Muiderslot near Amsterdam is the ideal knight’s castle
Palaces and castles are not necessarily what the Netherlands is known for. But it is far from the case that the land of windmills and tulip fields has nothing to offer in this area. The Muiderslot at the gates of Amsterdam, for example, is the ideal image of a knight’s castle with four round defensive towers, a moat and an inner courtyard.
The Muiderslot near Amsterdam is considered one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the Netherlands
Source: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn
The castle is known in the Netherlands as the setting of a medieval criminal case: When the Count of Holland, Floris V, acquired the walls around 1285, he could not have imagined that he had bought his own prison. In 1296 he was ambushed by rival nobles during a falcon hunt, imprisoned in the Muiderslot and finally killed with 22 sword stabs.
Known as the scene of a medieval criminal case, things are peaceful in Muiderslot today
Source: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn
You can still trace this drama in the castle today. An extremely cool young guide in a leather jacket tells the story of Floris, plus there are workshops, knight fights and garden safaris.
Kaiser Wilhelm II equipped Haus Doorn
However, the biggest castle attraction in the Netherlands – especially for German visitors – is the outwardly quite inconspicuous Haus Doorn. What’s special is its interior: the entire furnishings go back to Kaiser Wilhelm II, because he spent his twilight years here after his deposition at the end of the First World War.
A little smaller in size, but still a castle: Haus Doorn
Source: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn
“Wilhelm Zwo” lived in the manor house from 1919 until his death on June 4, 1941. His remains rest in a small mausoleum in the castle park, a few meters from the graves of his five dogs. In his will he stipulated that he could only be reburied in German soil when Germany had become a monarchy again. In this respect, there is no fear of disturbing the peace of the dead for the time being.
When the emperor died, the entire castle fell into a deep sleep, and that is the reason why everything still looks the same today as it did back then. The furnishings mainly come from the Berlin City Palace, Bellevue Palace and the New Palace in Potsdam. The treasures of the last German emperor were transported to the neutral Netherlands in five trains with a total of 59 wagons.
Exhibited in Haus Doorn: With this special helmet, Kaiser Wilhelm visited the soldiers at the front during the First World War
Source: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn
In his private chambers, countless battle scenes leave just enough space for a product of German precision work: the Emperor’s cuckoo clock is still ticking undaunted.
And when he did his correspondence in the afternoon, he did so in the horse’s saddle – which was, however, screwed to a platform in front of his desk. The Wilhelminian slippers are ready in the bedroom, one of his cigars muffles in the ashtray, and the cupboards are filled with the Emperor’s old clothes.
The Kaiser ignored the First World War
His special fork is still lying on the set table: a blade is incorporated into the tines on the outside left so that the fork can also be used for cutting. This was due to the fact that Wilhelm’s left arm was shortened and paralyzed from birth. Even the imperial toilet can be visited – it doesn’t look particularly luxurious by today’s standards.
The emperor’s old cutlery: The special fork with an integrated blade that “Wilhelm Zwo” used is still in the Doorn house
Source: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn
Perhaps under the impression of the TV series “Downton Abbey”, the visitors to Haus Doorn are also increasingly interested in the people from “downstairs”, the servants. Their premises in Doorn have also been completely preserved, which is unusual.
The servants moved in a parallel world of musty back rooms, wallpaper doors, stairs and attics. If possible, the master of the house should not see her at all.
More tips for the Netherlands:
House Doorn can be seen as a negation of history, says curator Cornelis van der Bas. “The First World War doesn’t happen here. The emperor acted as if he had never existed and is re-enacting the 19th century here.”
At the same time that he was surrounding himself with oil paintings, antiques and fringed carpets, the hyper-modern Rietveld Schröder House was built in nearby Utrecht, which perfectly expresses the light, air and space ideal of the Bauhaus style and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. World heritage counts.
“An enormous contrast to everything we see here,” says conservator van der Bas. “House Doorn still vividly shows us to this day that the emperor had completely lost touch with the present.”
Tips and information for the Netherlands:
Getting there: By car via the A 12 towards Utrecht. By train with the ICE to Utrecht Centraal, from there with buses. However, using public transport is relatively difficult.
The Locks: Slot Loevestein is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Admission when booked online is 14.90 euros, children aged 4 to 12 are 10.40 euros, including free; Overnight stays in a double room from 139 euros (slotloevestein.nl).
Muiderslot is open daily between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. from April 1st to October 31st, closed on Mondays in the winter months; Admission 17 euros for adults, 10 euros for children aged 4 to 11, including free (muiderslot.nl).
Haus Doorn can be visited Tuesday to Sunday from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.; Admission 12 euros, children from 7 to 18 years 6 euros, including free; There are special tours for the servants’ rooms that must be booked in advance (huisdoorn.nl).
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