2024-08-01 14:36:57
EIt is not easy to find rest at the end of the world. You had just sat down for breakfast when a voice rang out over the loudspeaker: “Everyone comes to heaven. Here you see something you will never see again in your entire life. “
Fellow travelers grab their cell phones and cameras, rush to the top of the boat and stare at the white dot on the rocky shore. It is a thick penguin. The captain steers the ship closer and you can see a glimpse of the red wings that are spread above his eyes like a giant. Then the rare penguin turned his back on us.
Nature can be unpredictable here in the south west of New Zealand. Inside Fiordland National Park 200 rains a year, a total of seven meters of precipitation is almost ten times as much as in Germany. In addition, the stormy season, the Roaring Forties.
Source: dpa; WORLD Infographic
Most vacationers only dare to make a quick visit. They travel by car or bus to the world famous Milford Sound, board a cruise ship for a few hours and return again. But if you want to enjoy the beauty of the companions of the Norwegian fjord landscape in southern Cork in peace, you have other options: for example a mini-farm in Doubtful Sound – with an overnight stay on board .
The deepest fjord in the southwest of the South Island
Only a long journey kept the crowd away: we went by bus to Manapouri, by boat across the reservoir of the same name and by another bus on a mountain saddle to the harbor at Deep Cove, where “Navigator Fiordland” is faded.
The ship, with places for a maximum of 52 passengers, is almost a nut shell compared to the ship giants of the big shipping companies, was launched in 2001 and “should he’s a lot older than he is,” said captain Blake Reid. , 40 years old. So three mats.
While the guests unload their luggage, the “Fiordland Navigator”, which looks like a traditional sloop, disembarks and goes into the fjord. Browne Falls, one of the area’s few permanent waterfalls, soon comes into view on the left. Most of the others rose spontaneously after the rainstorm, said creative director Divyesh Parmarm.
Me on Board: Nature directed by Divyesh Parmarm
Source: dpa-tmn
Because the water could not flow down the slope made of hard rock, it collapsed in the valley in hundreds of rocks. But today the sun is shining, there are a few delicate clouds in the sky.
Of the pearly sea of twelve fjords in the southwest of New Zealand’s South Island, Doubtful Sound is the second largest and, at 437 meters, the deepest. The Crooked Arm alone, in which the ship soon turned to the left, is larger than the whole of Milford Sound.
Black sea and tree avalanches
The program is tightly organized. Now there are scones with cream and jam, now you have to waddle to the back in swimming trunks and flip-flops, where the bright yellow kayaks, paddles and life jackets are put out. Paddling is practiced even in constant rain, said the entertainer, but it is only too dangerous in strong winds.
On this day, the rope, colored black by the tannin of the trees, is as shiny as a tablecloth. Most vacationers opt for a more comfortable option, traveling in a dinghy. As they lie close to each other, so do those who work together let them pour water freely on the bank.
The forest here has not been cut. Undisturbed by any engine noise, you can hear birds chirping, and two Maori whales, a species found only in New Zealand, circling above the tops of the silver bee trees.
In the high walls, the trees used their flat roots to support each other, Parmarm explained – “as if they were holding hands.” The Problem: If someone falls in a storm or heavy rain, it pulls others into the depths. This phenomenon is called tree avalanches, and you can see their tracks everywhere.
In the Crooked Arm, passengers can switch to a paddle boat – or ride in a dinghy
Quelle: Getty Images / Matthew Micah Wright
Once you get out of the kayak, the next thing on the agenda is waiting: jumping into the ocean. Anyone expecting arctic cold will be in for a surprise; Some kayak groups run up the stairs to the rail several times to jump into the deep brown, which is not cool. Parmarm says: “Someone comes in, even when it’s snowing.”
James Cook called it Doubtful
To make sure everything runs smoothly, Captain Reid adjusts the route daily to the weather, especially the wind. The three sides of the fjord are surrounded by high mountains so you always find shelter. When the weather is very rough, the captain seeks shelter in the evenings at Precipice Cove, a beach at the foot of Forden Peak, which is almost 1,200 meters high. There the “Fiordland Navigator” can be moored to a buoy.
Patea is what the Māori call the Doubtful Thing; Days before, his crew had fought through the storm and rain, and now they were eager to rest in the sheltered fjord. But Cook refused. His doubts were greater as to whether he would still be able to go out again against the prevailing westerly wind. On your map you notice: Doubtful Harbor. He drove on.
Reid doesn’t have these problems. Using the power of the engine, the captain steers the ship westward, towards the inlet, and out into the rough Tasman Sea. The sea here is green. Outside, without the umbrella of the mountains, the cold wind blows in your face. The wave rolls in, spray sprays up the Nee Islets. Dozens of fur seals lounge on bare rocky islands.
On deck at sunrise: morning mood on the other side of the world
Quelle: Getty Images / Jon Lovette
The ship changed and things quickly became more comfortable on board. In addition to the bar and the dining room, it also offers lounges with windows and decks with a view: the 1,000-meter high forest sides of the Secretary Island past, with the pebble bays at their feet , as light as white sand.
Reid chose Snug Cove in the First Section as his anchorage. There was already a small boat on the beach, “Southern Secret”. It is restricted by hobby anglers, says guide Parmarm. During the summer, some sailors stay on the same shore as the sailor. But they are always alone in the evenings.
Reverent face is The sound of silence
For dinner you can pick up on the buffet: from mussels to chicken to lamb, with salads, pasta and sweet potatoes. The offer is different, but at the same time you are not spoiled for choice between dozens of restaurants like one of the big cruise ships.
After the ceremony, Parmarm gave an interesting lecture showing videos of a rainy day when the current low tides were thunder flash floods; of a stormy day blowing the falls up; of humpback whales flying and dolphins waving mini rainbows upwards as they emerge. But even more impressive is the starry sky outside – and in the morning the rocky mountains glow in the sunlight.
For the finale, the “Fiordland Navigator” chugs into Hall Arm, the most beautiful branch of Doubtful Sound. The final sequence is called, like the fjord’s nickname: The Sound of Silence. All engines and generators are turned off for five minutes. Parmarm asked visitors to be quiet, stop and not take photos.
Surprisingly, everyone is familiar with it. You can barely hear the clearing of the throat, you can see the respectful face, your eyes wander over the sunlit forest slopes, the waterfalls, even the rocky mountains.
Mouse, it’s almost cleaning time. A few days ago, someone played the harmonica right after the silence, Parmarm said. And some guests would have cried.
Tips and information for New Zealand:
Resort: Them Fiordland National Park is located in the extreme southwest of New Zealand. In addition to small-scale excursions and boat trips, hiking and mountain biking in the wild, the nature that is popular activities.
Getting there: There are flights from many German cities with stops to Christchurch. Drive from there Intercity-Busse to Queenstown, where the bus organizers go in the morning.
Entry: What you need is a passport that must be valid for one month over the period of stay and one electronic device for one fee Getting a permit (from 17 New Zealand dollars).
Travel time: Fiordland has a lot of rain all year round, especially in spring (September to November). In the summer (December to February) the thermometer can rise to 30 degrees, but in high season the prices are high and many hotels are fully booked. In the autumn (March to May) it is always hot and the forests change color.
On board “Fiordland Navigator”: Two-day cruises are usually offered from September to the end of April. It costs from 349 New Zealand dollars including breakfast and breakfast on board. There are also three day trips in the winter bookable.
Money: Payment is in New Zealand dollars, which is equivalent to 0.54 euros (as of July 29, 2024)
Explanation: newzealand.com
Social Media: instagram.com/purenewzealand; youtube.com/purenewzealand
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