AOn my trip around the world I stopped in Bulgaria. Due to a lack of travel opportunities in Asia, we went from Thailand back to Europe directly to the Balkan region.
I almost felt at home in Bulgaria’s capital Sofia, because many of the streets remind me of Berlin’s eastern districts. However, I immediately noticed something strange: Why don’t the Bulgarians smile?
I had previously been in Thailand for half a year. The Corona situation there is now more relaxed, and people are happier again. But not only that. In Thailand the “female principle” seems to be dominant, as a German emigrant who has been living there for years tried to explain to me.
Thai men often have a soft, sometimes childish or feminine appearance. Their voices sound high to European ears, they like to fool around and often smile in embarrassment. You don’t take yourself so seriously.
After Thailand, the serious faces are almost a shock
So it’s almost a shock for me when I look at the serious expressions of the Bulgarians – both men and women. Here the “male principle” seems to be dominant.
Because no matter whether at the metro ticket counter, at the bakery, in the café, in the ice cream parlor or on the street, not a single smile shines at me. Surprisingly often I am served with good English, so communication problems are not the reason.
After a few days I feel strange approaching people in a good mood. But I won’t let that stop me from smiling – just because the Bulgarians keep looking grumpy doesn’t mean I have to let my mood spoil.
Smiling makes Bulgarians suspicious
But how can the phenomenon of not smiling be explained? After a few days I meet two Bulgarians who work in a hostel. Both spent several years abroad, one in Spain and the other in Peru. Because of Corona, they have been back in their home country for a few months.
They speak fluent English and Spanish – and they can smile. So I ask her why the Bulgarians seem so unfriendly and bad-tempered at first glance. Both are not surprised by my impression and laugh at first.
Both think that the harsh and unfriendly nature of the Bulgarians can be traced back to the country’s communist past. Showing feelings is not only an openly displayed weakness, but can also be misinterpreted.
For example, many Bulgarians accuse a smiling person of bad intentions. Anyone approaching someone with a grin on their face is initially viewed with suspicion.
The EU provides the country with billions in aid
In any case, distrust is currently a big issue in Bulgaria. Thousands of people have been demonstrating against the government for weeks, demanding their resignation and new elections. The accusation: corruption in the state apparatus.
This is also confirmed by a recently published report by the European Union, which classifies the rule of law in Bulgaria as problematic. Nevertheless, the EU provides the country with billions in aid.
And you can see that. In many places there are signs that the spruced up squares, monuments and sports facilities were financed with EU funds. In addition, there is free WiFi in many places – thanks be to Europe.
This is not New Zealand or Iceland – this is Bulgaria
All in all, Bulgaria makes a good impression on me as a traveller, apart from the lack of joie de vivre. Thanks to good bus and train connections, I can easily travel around the country. The prices for accommodation and food are at most half as high as in Germany. And the natural diversity of Bulgaria is really fascinating.
The Rila Mountains impress me the most. The town of Dupnitsa can be reached by train from Sofia in two hours. Then it’s about 30 minutes by bus to Sapareva Banya. There are many cheap inns to stay at if you want to stay longer.
From Sapareva Banya you can reach the mountain lift to the Seven Rila Lakes by taxi in half an hour. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t take the shaky mountain lift, but can be taken to the hiking route in an off-road vehicle over rocks and gravel for about the same price (equivalent to five euros).
The Rila Mountains with their seven glacial lakes are a highlight in Bulgaria
Source: Martin Lewicki
Now begins a five to six hour mountain hike to the seven different glacial lakes. The highlight in the literal sense is the arrival at the Ezeren summit at 2559 meters. From here you can see all seven lakes and marvel at the wonderfully rugged landscape.
No, that’s not New Zealand or Iceland, it’s Bulgaria. For me it’s a reason to smile, as well as the relaxing bath in the hot thermal springs of Sapareva Banya after the hardships of hiking.
Read more parts of the world tour series “One Way Ticket” here.
This article was first published in November 2020.