2023-11-04 11:00:00
The year 2023 is a good year for French restaurants, particularly in Paris with many new restaurants, some of which arrived during the last culinary season. The rest of France obviously has nothing to be ashamed of in this regard, whether it is Lille with Ginko, Marseille and Kin, the Luberon with Le Champ des Lunes, three addresses recently reviewed in this section. Still to the south but a little further east, here is Onice, another very nice surprise. Open since last March, this gourmet restaurant is already among the most vibrant restaurants in Nice.
An outstanding technical background
It must be said that the story is beautiful: the installation of Florencia Montes, an Argentinian chef with remarkable addresses around the world, at Septime in Paris, at the Eleven Madison Park restaurant in New York. But also and above all in Menton, at the Mirazur of her compatriot Mauro Colagreco, where she rose through the ranks before becoming executive chef in 2019, the year of three stars and first place in the ranking of the best restaurants in the world.
It was there that she met the Italian Lorenzo Ragni, in tandem with her in the Onice adventure. Despite an unparalleled technical background and golden CVs, the duo decided to settle in a discreet address in Old Nice, right next to the port. From their years at Colagreco, the two cooks have retained a taste for the balance of tastes and the play of textures.
Marine tones
At Onice, they already have their own identity, with predominantly marine tones, where purity and comfort meet in a heady ping-pong. The fragile flesh of the royal sea bream in carpaccio is served with a creamy trout and pike roe sauce, flavored with purple shiso leaves and thin strips of grated fresh walnut. The rustic coconut and chanterelle bean stew is balanced by a delicate mussel emulsion and black death trumpet powder.
The homemade taglioni, rolled up on themselves, are ennobled with a white caviar butter. A permanent fixture on the menu, this dish perfectly symbolizes the duo’s cuisine, available in two five- and seven-course menus. The address now needs to live and develop a patina. The room really doesn’t bother with decor and there’s plenty to warm it all up. It will also be necessary to enrich the wine list, which is not exciting, especially by the glass. But, it is certain, the tomorrow promises to be delicious.
5, rue Antoine-Gautier, Nice. Menus: 90 and 120 €. restaurantonice.com
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