Original Rolex or fake: How to recognize a fake

2024-01-02 17:18:00

You can recognize a real Rolex. Unless you come across a so-called “super replica”, i.e. a deceptively real fake. Then things get tricky.

If you search for a Rolex on the Internet, sooner or later you will come across fakes. Unfortunately, these are much easier to buy than the originals. You sometimes wait many years for a new Rolex. High-quality “replica watches” are a real problem – because unlike watches from beach vendors, even the trained eye finds it extremely difficult to distinguish the copy from the original. This takes its toll on the used market at the latest. How are you supposed to know whether the watch you want to buy is actually genuine? This guide is intended to help at least with current models – in four stages.

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The path to the real Rolex: The right trading place

You can save yourself a lot of suffering if you choose the right marketplace to buy a used Rolex. The Swiss manufacturer naturally recommends buying a watch exclusively from a jeweler. For new copies, you can safely postpone this because the warehouse is empty (you can find out more here). However, Rolex has been offering certified second-hand watches for some time now – initially only through Bucherer. There is no more security. However, the prices for watches from the “Rolex Certified Pre-Owned” program (CPO) are very high (find out more here).

Trading platforms such as Chrono24 or Chronext can be a little cheaper. Chrono24 is a kind of dealer directory for commercial sellers or private individuals. A little research is necessary when buying a watch, because not every dealer is automatically reputable. When purchasing through Chrono24, pay attention to reviews, the location and the “Chrono24 Trusted Seller” label if you want to be on the safe side.

Chronext, in turn, deals with the watches themselves, checks most of the watches themselves and gives a guarantee. This is very safe, but, considering the prices, expensive. You can certainly also buy a watch in the specialist forum “RLX”, because counterfeits there would be immediately noticed by the expert community and thrown off the platform.

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In fact, the auction house Ebay is also an option for a purchase because the platform offers an authenticity check after the purchase. However, this does not apply to every advertisement, which is why you should pay close attention to whether this service is part of the watch you want. If not, trading on Ebay only differs marginally from the offers on Ebay classifieds, probably the cheapest but most dangerous place to go for luxury watches.

It is absolutely possible to purchase via Ebay classifieds, but the number of counterfeits is highest here. Therefore, pay close attention to the provider, look for any branches and save the advertisement and its images to be on the safe side – should there be any problems. The basic rule is: “Buy the seller, not the watch”. This means that you should not only take a close look at the Rolex, but also at the person offering it.

Another big red flag is low prices from private individuals who claim not to know the value of the watch. To be honest: Anyone who can advertise a Rolex is also able to search for its price. There are no bargains!

The Rolex in your hand: obvious fakes

The good news: Even laypeople can recognize a bad counterfeit immediately. If the second hand does not slide across the dial but clearly jumps from second to second, be sure to keep your distance. The only exception: You want to buy an Oysterquartz – these are the only Rolex watches whose movement is actually battery-operated and where the hand does not move smoothly.

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We continue with the watch: Check whether the rehaut, i.e. the raised edge around the dial, contains an engraving and how precisely it is made. Only in older models is the ring blank; newer models have a rather obtrusive “ROLEXROLEXROLEX” lettering, interrupted by a crown at 12 o’clock and separated from the serial number at 6 o’clock. This serial number is also important and should be exactly as it appears in the watch’s papers. You should stay away from watches without papers unless you are absolutely sure. Attention: The papers on a Rolex change irregularly. Make sure that the warranty card matches the year of manufacture. “Holed papers” have not been around since the mid-2000s. More about this in the blog “100percentpassion“.

You should also check the font quality on the dial and the feel of the bezel, if it can be rotated. The writing on a Rolex is absolutely precise without exception, typos are as rare as unicorns. The click of a bezel, for example on the Submariner model, is rich and clearly defined, yet the ring can still be turned easily.

Then take a look at the case back: If you find an engraving here, you are either holding a model from the Sea Dweller series in your hands, or very likely a fake. The “Winner 24 Daytona” engraving is extremely popular. If you see it, leave it alone! The same applies to glass shelves through which you can see the work. There is a German watchmaker who actually makes these backs, but they are only original in exceptional cases, such as the 2023 edition of the platinum Daytona.

You can also tell whether a Rolex is genuine by looking at the clasp. If the brackets do not click into place cleanly or if the gaps are uneven, this is not a good sign. Also interesting: the polish on the inside. Depending on the model, it is matt or highly polished – a detail that many counterfeiters overlook.

Now look at the tape. Are there sharp edges? Gap dimensions where there shouldn’t be any? All bad signs. A Rolex bracelet does not rattle and the end pieces that are directly on the watch should not have any play.

Everything’s good up to this point – the secrets of a Rolex

Now start looking for details that some counterfeiters often fail at. At 6 o’clock you should see a crown in the glass of the watch – we are still talking about current models. Turn the clock into the light to see the little crown. The “laser crown” is very fine, often not visible, but always there. In counterfeits it is either completely missing or incorporated more roughly. In very rare cases the crown is not found at 6 o’clock, but elsewhere. This can happen if a watch has been in the workshop – but, as I said, it is extremely rare.

Then listen more closely – especially with movements from the 3130 series, you should hear a quiet ringing sound, provided there is absolute silence. This is unique and not heard in fakes. But: Unfortunately, this charming feature does not apply to all watches – and therefore only helps if certain movements are to be expected in the watch. However, a steady ticking sound should always be heard. For those in the know: it’s usually 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, i.e. eight ticks per second.

A modern Rolex glows – if it does – in blue. Rolex calls this “Chromalight” – many other manufacturers use “Superluminova” and thus achieve a green tone.

The color of the numbers in the bezel inlay can also be an indicator of a fake watch. Rolex either vaporizes the ceramic inlays with platinum or gold. In a real watch, the platinum shimmers slightly silvery, but appears more gray without much light. A clock with bright, almost white numbers is unlikely to come from the Switzerland.

It’s also worth taking a look at the hands – especially if luminous material is involved. Pay attention to a depth effect in places where the luminous material is inserted. Hands that are too smooth are not a good sign. In the dark, a modern Rolex should glow blue, not green. The easiest way to test this is with a flashlight. Hold the watch briefly, then cover it with your hand and examine the color.

If the clock has a date, make sure it is exactly in the middle of the window. If the Rolex has a magnifying glass, and almost everyone does, the magnification should be about a factor of 2.5. Rolex also coats the underside of the magnifying glass with an anti-reflective coating, which often results in a blue tint in fakes.