2023-04-27 06:00:29
After retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, peptides are the last star ingredients in care creams. But what exactly are peptides? What do they do for your skin? And where do they come from?
What are Peptides?
“We all have natural peptides in our bodies. They are organic compounds consisting of amino acids,” explains Dr. Samira Baharlou, Head of Dermatology at UZ Brussel. Peptides are the building blocks of proteins, such as the collagen fibers that give our skin firmness and elasticity. In our body, peptides function as messengers: they give our cells signals and information. In this way they contribute to the recovery of the skin, e.g. with wounds. Depending on the amino acid combinations, peptides have different properties and thus different functions. That’s why creams and serums usually contain several to join forces. Not just newcomers like Drunk Elephant of Typologybut also well-known brands such as Clarins are launching a peptide cocktail on the market today. Clarins even made a new premium line with it: Precious.
Which peptides are used in cosmetics?
Usually these are synthetic products, but more and more ‘green’ peptides are coming onto the market. Lancôme’s Rénergie range, for example, contains peptides from lupine, linseed and peas. “You don’t need much to get an effect. They are active ingredients that are not very expensive, which may also explain their success,” says the dermatologist. “In addition, they are generally well tolerated and can therefore be used by all skin types, even the most sensitive.”
Peptides are generally well tolerated and can therefore be used for all skin types, even the most sensitive.
What exactly do peptides do?
They act on the production of collagen and thus on the firmness of the skin. The peptides we naturally have in our skin act as a signaling agent to encourage the skin to produce more collagen when needed. By lubricating peptides, it is hoped to give her an extra boost. In addition, they smooth out expression lines and limit the production of melanin, the culprit when it comes to pigment spots.
“The results are often measured in the lab on artificial skin,” says Dr. Baharlou. “In real life, when your skin is exposed to the sun, when you sweat or your acidity fluctuates and there is therefore a change in pH, the effect is often more difficult to demonstrate. What we do see is that the epidermis looks better. Peptides strengthen the skin’s barrier, preventing microbes and toxins from entering your skin. When the barrier is stable, the skin is better hydrated and more resistant to infections. Which indirectly has a positive effect on the storage of melanin.”
Peptides act on the production of collagen and thus on the firmness of the skin.
How do you use a cream with peptides?
Dr. Baharlou recommends using peptide-based skin care products in the morning because of their immediate smoothing effect. “They prepare your skin for your makeup. After all, peptides fill in small wrinkles like a primer would. They work immediately, hence the popularity. But that slippery effect is temporary. Due to their size, they sometimes have difficulty penetrating the skin. Therefore, for maximum effect, I recommend combining them with microneedling sessions of 2.5 mm microperforations, performed by a physician and under local anesthesia.”
Can you mix them with other ingredients?
“That is even more effective. If they are combined with vitamin E, for example, they will be more easily absorbed by your skin. Don’t expect peptides to solve all your skin problems. For example, we see that the myBlend brand, which has a cream and a serum with peptides, advises to use one or two serums that contain, for example, retinol, vitamin C or glycolic acid to respond to other skin needs. Peptides are also often combined with hyaluronic acid for even more hydration, or niacinamide for its antioxidant properties. In short, although they have an undeniable effect on the quality of your skin, peptides do not stand alone. Keep that in mind when purchasing: you often need to supplement them with other products to complete your skin care regimen.”
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