Place where Goethe raved: Rochus Chapel in Bingen

by time news

2024-08-16 05:18:59

He had to wait a long time – a full 17 years. Only when the French threat seemed to have been averted was Johann Wolfgang von Goethe able to fulfill his wish to see his old homeland again in 1814. Through Frankfurt we went to the spa in Wiesbaden and from there to the Rheingau for visits , for example to Brentanos. In high spirits, the museum turned to many unfinished works and gave the community one of the most beautiful brochures, “Saint Rochus Festival in Bingen”.

On August 16, Goethe did not miss the opportunity to follow the Rochus pilgrimage, which has been celebrated since the plague of 1666 until today – only eight days now instead of one back then – after an interruption of twenty years. Of course, he almost missed the arrival due to geological studies. “The body is held back from the path of holiness,” he reported. Whether it is the quartzite of the rock now known as “Goethestein” remains to be seen. Since only the “pieces” had fallen, Goethe was finally able to turn his attention to the “pious and happy affairs” of the pilgrims and climb the difficult path to Rochusberg among them.

Many people were running to the church, but then, many of the people, who were divided into villages, arrived: “They went with singing and answering; Flags are beating, standards are changing, bigger and bigger candles are rising step by step. they didn’t lose today either. “The main topic of every conversation” was, no surprise, “lust for wine”. Already in the morning, jug after jug ​​came to the table, which, according to Goethe’s notes, bore the name of Rochus, who renounced all the good things of the world.

However, grape juice cannot cloud the “artist’s eye”. The unfinished floor of the new building appeared to Goethe to have been incorrectly laid out after the destruction in 1794. Did the present, higher church precede it? A little reminiscent of a church, it was built in 1895 in the Neo-Gothic style on the site of a church that was destroyed by lightning.

After all, until a few years ago, there was no jungle that revealed the view of one of the “most beautiful places in the world”. What would Goethe have written if he had known the later attractions: the Niederwald Monument and the double-edged Eibingen monastery on the right bank of the Rhine, the Neo-Gothic Mouse Tower or the historic Klopp tower in the center of Bingen?

A green value on the bank can not now be overlooked – the most of the 2008 State Garden Show Where industrial wastelands once dominated, the city has managed to turn the area into a park of it goes beyond the days, which is a place for. nature conservation, (horticultural) art, refreshments and leisure activities are used. Now it is called “Kulturufer”.

Directions

In terms of infrastructure, the former area of ​​the State Horticultural Exhibition is well connected: there is direct access from two train stations, and there are many parking spaces in the area of ​​the Hindenburg complex or next to the entrance . Nahe river (free of charge from Saturday lunchtime and Sunday, otherwise cheap daily rates).

“Park at the Mouse Tower”, which can be reached by a foot bridge over the railway platforms, is dedicated to cultivated plants and educational information about flora and fauna. Additional information center is available in the previous “display box”. As a reminder of the marshalling area, it was saved, as was the “wagon repair hall”. The short detour is worth it just for the view of the Mouse Tower. Return – the loop can still be jumped, just to the right – we reach the mouth of the Nahe river.

Then we turn to the top of the Rhine, either along the banks or through the green fields, with the rosarium and the Hildegarten for medicine and plants useful in the spirit of Hildegard von Bingen. He added the “Museum am Strom”, which opened in 1998 on the saint’s 900th birthday and which, in addition to his work, is dedicated to Rhine romanticism and Roman legacies as well as a complete base of medical equipment. The biggest “exhibitions” are outside – the old crane from the end of the 18th century, which has been moved back to the bank and can be visited, and the pene of the strong factory running on iron- organization

It looks more like a church, the “Rochus Chapel” on the Rochusberg above Bingen. After the previous building was destroyed by lightning, the pilgrimage church was enlarged and rebuilt in Gothic style in 1895. To this day, the “Saint Roch Festival” described by Goethe in 1814 is celebrated in honor of the saint. . He is said to have escaped the plague from the city on the Rhine in 1666.Thomas Klein

Instead of boats, car ferry to Rüdesheim and ferry boats today, as we can see if you continue the road at the exit of the park by clicking right hand a little and then next to the winter station; at the fork on the left. Beyond the end we stay in the same direction for a good 150 meters before the tracks are bridged at a sharp angle to the right. Over there, follow Mainzer Straße to the left to the Goethestein junction – if you look closely, there are several quartzite rocks of a manageable size.

From the left bend behind you you aim right into the unobserved path for the steep climb to the Rochusberg. Further up the road split; both suggestions find their way up. However, the hot, humid weather has made the plants of the land grow vigorously. The city said it should be cut back this week. The difference through the entrance to the quarry already outside is more convenient. Either way, it comes straight out of Rochus Chapel.

The banks of the Rhine in Bingen, which has been open since the Rhineland-Palatinate State Garden Exhibition in 2008, now let the right side of the river pass as a panorama. Behind the famous Mouse Tower, which was rebuilt in the Neo-Gothic style in 1855, rise the ruins of the Ehrenfels castle and above them the The banks of the Rhine in Bingen, which has been open since the Rhineland-Palatinate State Garden Exhibition in 2008, now let the right side of the river pass as a panorama. Behind the famous Mouse Tower, which was rebuilt in the Neo-Gothic style in 1855, rise the ruins of the Ehrenfels castle and above them the “Rossel” of the Niederwald landscape park.Thomas Klein

Further to the right, under the chestnuts, you come to the Hildegard Congregation of the Sisters of the Cross, who, in addition to spiritual meditation with a daily changing buffet, are also committed to food. His monastery is in front of the nearby gate. He passed, then continued straight ahead. Hornbeams and oak trees soon surrounded the traveler, so tightly woven with ivy and clematis that they did not allow a view of the Rhine valley.

Things look better from a high point like the Kaiser Friedrich Tower, built in 1888. It draws attention to the river’s arrow successfully into the Rhenish Slate Mountains and down to the hexagonal Drusus Bridge over the Nahe. It dates back to the 11th century and is considered the oldest stone bridge in Germany. We continue under the trees through a few turns to the round lookout platform on the Scharlachkopf.

As part of the 2008 State Garden Exhibition, the As part of the 2008 State Garden Exhibition, the “Old Crane” from 1787, which had long since been dismantled but was preserved, was placed back on the banks of the Rhine. Open to everyone, you can see how it’s done by the wheels. The wine barrels were originally built.Thomas Klein

You leave to the right on a level path that leads to a higher place, which the oak trees seem to prevent you from escaping. When the next nature trail, after 500 meters, indicates the previous use of the woods in a bench, turn left to the staircase lined with chestnut; down right towards the wall.

This is like the tent of a Jewish cemetery that is lying under a canopy of burning ivy. The 1,000 preserved gravestones date back to the 16th century. Shortly after, you turn left at a sharp corner – and out into a vineyard between the Jewish cemetery and the surrounding area. After 200 meters you have to make a sharp right turn down until the rows of vines flow smoothly into the growth. In front of the school on the left is Morschfeldweg, on the right In der Eisel, Schlossbergstrasse and Mariahilfstrasse you reach the area of ​​Klopp Castle (with restaurant and high tower).

Below, a spiral staircase leads to a traffic-stopping centre; here left across the Mayor-Franz-Neff-Platz to Zehnmorgenstrasse, at the end of the late Gothic St. Martin’s Basilica; Before, right on the bank of Nahe to the beginning.

Worth seeing

Goethe made Rochus Chapel famous. But that’s not what stands on Rochusberg today. It was built in 1895 in a neo-Gothic design from the net vault to the chapel crown. The Gothic was also referred to in 1855 in the famous Mouse Tower on the Rhine, a former cultural office, while the Basilica of St. Martin goes back to the 15th century.

In the center of the city, Klopp Castle grew as a fantasy building on a medieval foundation with an entrance tower (today the town hall). The area of ​​the State Garden Exhibition, with the “Museum am Strom”, becomes a green and cultural mile.

Directions

Bingen is on the left bank of the Rhine near the A 60 coming from Mainz.

There is a connection to Bingen main station every half hour via Mainz (ICE and S 8).

Data

Length: 13 (12) km
Height: 220
Map: Upper Middle Rhine Valley, scale 1:25,000, State Office for Surveying, Rhineland-Palatinate

Stay in

Hildegard-Forum on Rochusberg, closed on Mondays, otherwise from 11.30 am to 6 pm

Burg Klopp RestaurantMondays and Tuesdays are closed, otherwise 12 pm to 2:30 pm.

Opening hours

Museum on the riverdaily except Mondays from 10 am to 5 pm; The program of the pilgrimage from August 18th to 25th is: www.rochusfest.de.
Traditional Wine Festival is celebrated in the city center from August 30th to September 9th.

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