twelve o’clock, 22 March 2021 – 20:11
From Vulture comes the «Don Anselmo», the Aglianico Riserva from the Paternoster company; a ruby red wine with garnet nuances, well structured and of great balance
of Vincenzo Rizzi and Pasquale Porcelli
Food (by Vincenzo Rizzi)
Das a child he had two dreams in the drawer: the art of drawing and that of cooking. Evidently the second prevailed, also because Vito Lorusso made use of the teachings of a good cook, his mother, and in the fifth grade he was already able to prepare a sumptuous baked pasta. From that moment it has been a continuous growth, faced with a smile on the lips and with an unstoppable desire for novelty. From his Gravina he moves to Rimini for the summer seasons, and while studying in the hotel institute he occasionally experiences in a pizzeria and pastry shop. In fact, it jumps like a cricket from one reality to another, and then from one country to another. Between Holland and London; between a catering in Ukraine and a stay in Madrid, where he teaches bread-making and learns the techniques of cooking at low temperatures and smoking meat. Today it seems to have stopped. In fact, we meet him as the first chef in the elegant Poggiofranco district of Bari, in an original place that offers fun exotic dishes and some tasty more traditional preparation, with vacuum-packed products and low-temperature cooking. This is Francesco Di Giacomo’s Pokenroll, and he has never stopped business thanks to a well-started take-away and home delivery service. Modern furnishings, rooms that extend in length, and the various counters for the related specialties: whether you want a cocktail, Japanese sushi, or Hawaiian poké. The poké is an ancient food of the fishermen of Hawaii, which involves the combination of leftover fish with rice, vegetables and fruit, and which has recently become trendy also in Puglia. However, there are many variations, and here each customer can choose the preferred combination based on the many ingredients available. Up to the delicious version with couscous, teriyaki chicken and caramelized onion; perhaps as an alternative to the fresher poké with rice, tuna and mango. However, the offer is quite wide and diversified, and those who want to head towards the Rising Sun will discover the pleasure of the roll with tuna and purple shrimp, or the roll with local scents with octopus and potatoes. And those who want to entrust themselves to the inspiration of the chef can order (even online) and have two beautiful solutions brought home that fully satisfy, regardless of the territorial origin. Do not miss the Peruvian amberjack ceviche, with a wonderful spicy note that manages not to cover the taste of the fish, and then proceed with the elegant salmon cooked at low temperature in a sweet and sour sauce. The bill can range from 10 to 35 euros excluding wines.
Pokenroll recipes and “Don Anselmo”
The wine (by Pasquale Porcelli)
CAs they say: if it did not exist we would have to invent it, but this could be done by others, where the lack of history and rules allow almost everything. On the other hand, goodbye, we have Aglianico and thanks to mother nature who wanted to be generous in the Vulture, we just have to be intelligent and let the earth express its fruits, supporting it and intervening only to facilitate the task. The soils of volcanic origin that surround Mount Vulture and extend towards the plain, are ideal for the production of high quality wines. The soils of volcanic origin are characterized by a high permeability, consisting mainly of iron, potassium, calcium, phosphorus. On the soils of the Vulture there is a great lack of homogeneity, mainly due to the historicity of the eruptions and their divergence. The area that we could define as classic for history and quality of the land is above all that which includes the municipalities of Atella, Rionero, Ripacandida, Ginestra, Rapolla and the upper part of Melfi on the slopes of Mount Vulture. The altitude varies from 650 meters in Rionero to 600 meters in Barile, to go down to 450 meters in Rapolla. And it is precisely in Barile that the Paternoster vineyards are located, a historic winery that dates back to its birth in 1926 as reported on the architrave that overlooked the old cellar. Don Anselmo, in honor of the founder, is the most representative wine of the company, the one destined for greater aging and which well embodies the company philosophy. It is aged in large barrels and partly in barrique to then remain in the bottle for another 12 months. Intense ruby red with garnet hues. On the nose it shows a complex aromatic picture with notes of small fruits, chocolate and sweet spices. In the mouth it is elegant, essential, never overflowing yet well structured and of great balance, as are all the wines of this winery that has marked the winemaking history of the region.
March 22, 2021 | 20:11