2023-05-12 11:27:15
Mith each of the 25 steps down, London gets a little more silent. So much so that it’s hard to imagine that not a kilometer away, red double-decker buses and black taxis are rushing through busy Euston Road, tourists are pouring out of King’s Cross station with trolley suitcases, or Harry Potter fans are queuing for a photo at the famous platform 9 ¾ .
Down on Regent’s Canal there is hardly any sign of the hustle and bustle, the hustle and bustle of the metropolis of nine million. Under protective trees, the red canal boat “Galatée” nestles firmly moored at its berth.
A wooden ramp leads to the bow, another step to the domicile: couch corner, folding table, the berth behind a cupboard, which borders on a small bath. The few square meters on board are well thought out, and overnight guests do not have to go without WiFi and drinking water straight from the tap.
For the hosts, the boat is their floating home
The ship’s stern is occupied by its owners, retired couple Sarah and Simon Hodgkinson. While the guests only stay for a short time, the “Galatée” has been their floating home for ten years.
They drastically reduced their belongings for the move and have since gotten to know London from an unfamiliar side: “For us, it’s like living in a village,” says Sarah. “People know and support each other here, we have nice people Ship neighbors and can enjoy so much nature right in the center.” Simon, on the other hand, is not far from Saint Martins College of Art and Design, where he studies art.
Source: dpa; Infographic WORLD
The view of the north shore goes through the portholes. Cyclists roll down the ramp to the canal and deftly thread themselves around flaneurs strolling along the old towpath.
The hooves of thousands of workhorses used to clip here. Because the 14-kilometre-long Regent’s Canal was once London’s busiest transport route – and has connected the Grand Union Canal with the Thames since 1820. Whether coal, building materials, grain from the Midlands or even blocks of ice from Norway: Goods were transported to London by water on lock and tunnel-capable narrowboats, only two meters wide – pulled by horses along the towpaths.
Since the 1960s, the green-blue ring has gradually transformed into what is probably London’s longest residential and leisure oasis. The “Galatée” is just one of an estimated 4,000 canal boats on London’s waterways. Until the early evening hours, leisure captains sail by on excursion boats or houseboats, greeting them happily.
Markets, parks and wildlife along Regent’s Canal
London seems miles away. It’s going to be a restful night on board the “Galatée” – until, in the early hours of the morning, squirrels hunt through the treetops, birds trill and the first joggers trot along the canal. While having breakfast outdoors, you can watch gray herons less than four meters from the bow.
“Even a fox has its territory here,” says Sarah. “You should never leave your shoes outside at night,” she advises. The crook stole her from a guest and took her down a side street.
From Little Venice you can take a boat trip towards Camden
Source: dpa-tmn
Regent’s Canal is lined with markets and parks. Exploring it is like taking a history lesson. The perfect start: a boat tour from Little Venice to Camden. The guests on the almost 90-year-old narrowboat “Perseus” sit on narrow green leather seats and pull out their cameras. Over the next four kilometers, a colorful and well-heeled West End London is presented.
They lie side by side, such as the royal blue “Cecily”, the red “Mathilda” or the white canal boat “Philona”, the latter owned by a pop star. Where the canal curves north around Regent’s Park, it’s lined with swanky villa lots. The huge enclosures of London Zoo soon tower above the treetops until the journey ends at bustling Camden Market.
Formerly a coal warehouse, now a hip neighborhood
Strolling further east, more canal boats line the towpath. Flowers, herbs or tomatoes sprout in makeshift baskets and boxes on many roofs.
It’s not far to King’s Cross. In the course of an extensive construction project, the previously derelict site has been transformed into a trendy district with hip shops, restaurants and the university. Climbing the broad steps to Granary Square overlooks the renovated Granary building and the Coal Drop Yards. Their names reveal that wheat and coal were once stored here.
Boat watching and hanging out: The steps at Granary Square in the heart of King’s Cross are a popular meeting place
Source: dpa-tmn
Back on the towpath, the Islington Tunnel soon comes into view. Boats heading east seem to be swallowed up by the dark 885 meter long tube before reappearing at the other end of bustling The Angel. The walkway runs above ground on this passage past Chapel Market.
The canal extends its blue band for a further seven kilometers to the Thames. The further you follow it through London’s East End, the less touristy it gets. Visitors are also rarely encountered in adjacent oases such as the sprawling Victoria Park.
Exchanged the rental apartment in London for a houseboat
Nice chance encounters await along the way, including Lizzie and Jan. They enjoy the afternoon sun on the bow of their “Harvest Moon”. Just a few months ago, the 26-year-old props maker and the 30-year-old regional manager of a charity swapped their expensive rented apartment for life on the houseboat.
Small but fine: Lizzie and Jan live on the “Harvest Moon”. They have to change berths every two weeks
Source: dpa-tmn
While the “Galatée” is permanently moored at a private and coveted berth, the young couple – like more than half of all “boaters” – is one of the so-called “continuous cruisers”, which are always on the move. For a license of 1000 pounds (about 1150 euros) a year, they can moor at public berths in the London canal system for two weeks.
“It’s relatively easy to find a new place, even if the boats often have to moor next to each other in popular places,” says Jan. “Then we also have to fill up the water tank, for example. We are busy with maintenance work like this five hours a week.” They enjoy the lifestyle, even if it means more work.
Narrowboats are also moored at the end of the canal, in the fashionable Marina Limehouse Basin. “How romantic you have it here!” one exclaims. “Yes,” a houseboat resident calls back, “the sun is shining now, but just wait until winter comes.”
Meanwhile, Sarah and Simon Hodgkinson are already looking forward to firing up their stove – and planning the next art exhibition. Then the “Galatée” turns into a pop-up gallery on the towpath. That should also be worth seeing.
Tips and information:
Holiday destination: The Regent’s Canal extends through the boroughs of the City of Westminster, Camden, Islington, Hackney and Tower Hamlets.
Arrival and formalities: Arrival via the London airports Heathrow, Stansted, Luton, Gatwick. Or by train in connection with the Eurostar. A valid passport is required for entry.
Overnight stays on a canal boat: Most overnight stays on London canal boats can be booked via platforms such as Airbnb or Book a Houseboat get booked. Also the provider The Boathouse offers accommodation on water.
Around the Regent’s Canal: Boat tours between Little Venice and Camden can be booked online at London Waterbus Company or Jason‘s Trip. Im London Canal Museum the Battlebridge Basin brings the history of the canal to life.
Information: visitlondon.com/de; visitbritain.com/de/de
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