The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, priced at US$109,000, combines haute horlogerie craftsmanship with the brand’s signature biretrograde calendar mechanism, offering a blend of tradition and innovation.
The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar: A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
The watch’s design is a direct nod to the Excalibur case, first introduced in 2005, but with a more refined, layered dial that showcases the brand’s signature extravagance. The dial’s seven-layer structure includes a “Cosmic Blue” mother-of-pearl flange, gold-etched day and date scales, and a moon phase indicator with an aventurine backdrop.
The watch’s technical specifications underscore its status as a high-end complication. The RD850 caliber, certified by the Poinçon de Genève, features a 60-hour power reserve and a bi-retrograde system that resets the day and date hands with a smooth, mechanical jump. This mechanism, refined over decades, ensures both reliability and visual spectacle. The 18k pink gold case, though downsized to 40 mm, retains the Excalibur’s signature triple lugs and a 100-meter water resistance rating, blending robustness with elegance.
The Steel Version: Accessibility Meets Exclusivity
The Excalibur Grande Complication: A Leap into Complexity
For those craving even greater complexity, the Excalibur Grande Complication, unveiled in 2025, combines a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, and a flying tourbillon. Limited to eight pieces, this model features the RD118 caliber, a 684-part movement with two micro-rotors and a “devil’s chord” minute repeater that produces a dissonant chime.
The Biretrograde Mechanism: A Legacy of Innovation
The biretrograde calendar, a hallmark of Roger Dubuis, has evolved significantly since its inception. This innovation, highlighted in the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, has been refined over the years to enhance reliability and aesthetics.
Source 6’s coverage of the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Jumping Calendar underscores the mechanism’s enduring appeal. The RD14B movement, with its 294 components and Geneva Seal certification, demonstrates the brand’s technical expertise. The jumping calendar
feature, where the hand instantly moves from the 15th to the 16th or 31st to the 1st, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to precision and innovation.
What Comes Next for Roger Dubuis?
As Roger Dubuis continues to balance tradition with avant-garde design, the future of its Excalibur collection remains closely watched. The brand’s 2025 Excalibur Grande Complication, with its “more is better” philosophy, hints at a trajectory toward even greater complexity. However, the introduction of more accessible models like the steel Biretrograde Calendar suggests a strategic effort to expand its audience without compromising its luxury identity.
For collectors and enthusiasts, the key question is whether Roger Dubuis can sustain its innovative edge while navigating the challenges of a competitive luxury watch market. The brand’s history of in-house development, from the RD0829 caliber in 2009 to the RD118 in 2025, indicates a strong foundation. Yet, the success of its latest offerings will depend on their ability to resonate with both traditionalists and modernists in the horological world.
