2023-09-20 11:25:23
The long sandy coast is embraced by the Apuan Alps, and in the middle the Mediterranean scrub. There is something magical in Versilia. Just pronouncing the name brings to mind those summers full of sun and carefreeness in the fifties and sixties, when the jet set met in Forte dei Marmi at the Capannina. The famous venue was born in 1929, set up by the then mayor Achille Franceschi, transforming an old hut on the beach into a place of worship. The Della Gherardesca, Rospigliosi, Rucellai, the Sforza family met there, but also Montale or Luchino Visconti, Vittorio Gassman. They arrived by boat directly in front of the club, to sip a Negroni at sunset.
Yesterday as today, Versilia maintains its charm intact, balanced between 1920s architecture and generous nature with a sea view, pleasant even in autumn. Gabriele D’Annunzio described it as a “paradise of golden beaches”.
On the shores of Lake Massaciuccoli, near the mouth of the Serchio and the former royal estate of San Rossore, it is worth discovering the enchantment of Villa Orlando, built in 1869 as a hunting lodge. It preserves intact the charm of the era, when painters and musicians, first of all Giacomo Puccini, made Torre del Lago their refuge. The residence, in neo-Gothic style, with original decorations, floors, furnishings and paintings from the past, is immersed in a four-hectare park, with centuries-old holm oaks, rose gardens and palm trees. And a beautiful terrace that opens onto the lake, offering a beautiful view of the lake and the mountains.
Massaciuccoli Lake
Pietrasanta is another jewel of the area. The fortified town of medieval origins is called “little Athens”, due to the nearby marble quarries, which made it an open-air laboratory for sculpture, craftsmanship and mosaic. Getting lost in the maze of alleys in the center leads to discovering the artisan workshops that preserve ancient knowledge. You will discover a dense network of artisan workshops, more than two hundred workshops that work bronze, glass, slate, semi-precious stones and marble.
The itinerary continues in Viareggio, where you can retrace the threads of local aesthetics, following the Liberty walk, with its well-preserved treasures. In fact, artists such as the painter and writer Lorenzo Viani and the greatest exponent of Italian Liberty Galileo Chini were active in Viareggio.
The protagonist of the scene is the Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte, which, with its 101 years, has contributed to writing the history of the area. A privileged destination in Viareggio since the 1920s, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, it stands out on the seafront, with its iconic façade with a rounded corner, which blends the neoclassical architecture of the late 19th century with the Belle Époque atmosphere, among motifs florals and details with an exotic flavour. The history and importance of the hotel was also told with photos, autographs and historical menus in the book “One hundred years as a prince” (Forma editions, 248 pages, 80 euros). We discover that Marlene Dietrich stayed here in 1972, on the occasion of her show at the Bussola in Focette.
It was designed by Giuseppe De Micheli in 1922 (initially named Select Palace Hotel), taking inspiration from the large hotels of the French Riviera. For over a century, it has been a beloved destination for royalty, artists and celebrities, from Puccini to the Dukes of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Sophia Loren and Marcello Mastroianni.
Today, browsing through the Chinese Room, the Library and the Gottuso Room, you can relive the glamor for which Versilia is known. The Art Nouveau building is listed for its cultural and landscape value, but an impressive restyling by S+S Studio, with the contribution of Studio Archea for the swimming pool and terrace, has renewed the interiors, combining contemporary design with decorations original Art Nouveau, Venetian glass chandeliers, gilded mirrors, all with a precious art collection, hand-painted silk wallpapers, between elegance and avant-garde.
The building contains a true destination in itself, with five floors, 80 rooms including 32 suites, common lounges and more intimate rooms, a modern wellness area and the beautiful Butterfly room. For an authentic experience of Tuscan craftsmanship, you can try the suite by the Florentine designer Stefano Ricci, who curated the spaces with style and materials – from the briar wood of the furniture to the marbles – made in Tuscany.
And then there is the roof, which offers a real eye-catcher: the view you can admire, over the entire coastline, immersed in the heated swimming pool, is worth the trip.
The gourmet experience is another good reason to spend a weekend here. Unmissable is a dinner at Piccolo Principe, the only restaurant on the Tuscan coast with two Michelin stars, led by executive chef Giuseppe Mancino, who, starting from the typical elements of the Versilia area, with Mediterranean flavors as protagonists, has created a selection of creative and surprising dishes. Among the specialties, the “Pizzaiola-style red mullet, Tuscan bread, mozzarella, capers, tomatoes, black olives” and the “Spaghetti creamed with butter, anchovies and smoked tea”. You can also taste the excellence of the area by the glass: the wine list is a journey of taste among the Tuscan vines, ideal for enhancing the chef’s dishes.
It ends on a high note at the bar, with the 101 cocktail, composed of Gin Arte, Floral Vermouth from Prato, Amarancio Borsi and 10 percent saline solution, created to celebrate 101 years of living in the name of glamor in this Grand Hotel.
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