Sifnos, although it has been at the center of interest several times, has resisted mass tourism. Development has changed many things, yet the island has remained intact. The new has been incorporated into the local traditions, as the Sifnians have maintained their identity and have not changed themselves. They invite those who visit them to embrace and respect life on their island.
Familiar yet majestic. A place of poets and a homeland of flavors. Here was born the famous chef Nikolaos Tselementes as well as the poets Ioannis Griparis, Kleantis Triantafyllou, and Arisomenis Proveleggios. Small, but with beautiful villages and a history waiting to be explored. It measures only 15 km in length and 7.5 km in width, with 14 scattered settlements. It loves folk architecture – at least until recently. It inspires gastronomic journeys with dishes of patience, slow-cooked and flavorful.
From the most cosmopolitan Apollonia, full of shops, bars, and restaurants, and the picturesque neighborhood of Katabatis, you can reach Artemona in just one kilometer, with its mansions and streets adorned with bougainvilleas. Look for the traditional pastry workshop Theodorou (T/ 2284-031370) to taste Sifnian almond sweets. Every year in September, the Kykladic Gastronomy Festival “Nikolaos Tselementes” is organized here (19-21/09/2024). Head down to the settlements of Ano and Kato Petali and continue on the road to Kastro and Seralia – the ancient port of Sifnos. Exambela, one of the largest villages in Sifnos, is on the way to Faro and Platy Gialos. Look for traces of ancient towers – the watchtowers, 6th century BC – churches, and old windmills. Visit the Monastery of Panagia Vryssiani (1642), where the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art operates (T/ 22840-31335).
You will definitely pass through Kamaras, as it is the modern port of the island. The seaside village offers bathing, food, entertainment, and action. Here you will find the Black Cave, a climbing area with 14 routes, ideal for beginners, but also some more technical and interesting ones for advanced climbers. The rock is gray and red limestone of good quality. Ratings range from 5c – 6c+.
Where to Swim
If you have been to other islands in the Aegean, you wouldn’t say that Sifnos has the best beaches – at least not at first glance. With a coastline of 70 km, it has many small coves that can be accessed by road, paths, or by sea. It also allows travelers to visit more than one beach in a single day.
- The busiest is Platy Gialos, which attracts quite a crowd, as it has many restaurants and cafes along its length. It is organized with sunbeds and umbrellas but also has free space. Vathy is the large sandy beach of the island. On its right side, after the chapel of Taxiarchis, the beach continues. Here there is a small settlement where you will find tavernas. Kamaras is next to the port; nonetheless, it has clear shallow waters, a vast sandy beach, tamarisk trees for shade, food and drinks by the sea, and games on the beach.
- Favorites of those who are regular visitors to the island. The small beach of Chrysopigi is located under the cliffs of the Chrysopigi Monastery, on the right side of the cove. On the left side is Apokofto, where you can find tavernas serving food. The three beaches of Faro: the namesake of the settlement, Glifo, and Fassolou, each have their own public.
- More remote, in the northern part of the island, the Chersonisos, and the more adventurous Broulidia, are worth your attention. The same goes for the beaches to the left of Vathy bay – which can be reached via a path, giving the impression that they are not isolated.
Where to Eat
- Combining old with new: NOS (T/ 2284-440924) combines tradition with modern techniques in dishes that support sustainability and locality. Cantina (cantinasifnos.gr) uniquely showcases Sifnian cuisine with wood-oven dishes, fresh fish, and seafood. Here, the utilization of materials without waste is the way the restaurant operates, highlighting unique local flavors. A moody space in an old canteen with only minor interventions. Bostani (T/ 698-1723727) operates within the Verina Astra hotel and introduces fusion cuisine to the audience of Sifnos.
- For a relaxed atmosphere: In Kastro, in a wonderful location overlooking Seralia, you will find Loggia Wine Bar (T/ 22840-31965). In the space where an old tavern operated, today in addition to selected wines from the Greek vineyard, you will also enjoy delicious cheeses from various regions of the country, local products, and a unique sunset. The meze shop Perivoli in Artemona serves unique meze.
- Essential stops: Brunch on the terrace of the all-time classic Botzi (T/ 6981-723727). The restaurant Ta Broulidia (T/ 22840-8034) for simple, traditional, homemade cooking in a clean, simple, and neat environment.
What to See
- Architecture and cultural monuments of centuries: The island has many places of historical and architectural significance, dating back to the Bronze Age. During the Classical Period, it is considered that it influenced decision-making. It was a crossroads of various cultures and influences, as it was located at a critical point in the Cyclades and had significant metallurgical and mining activity due to its gold and silver mines. The Acropolis of Agios Andreas and the ancient watchtowers, the towers that protected the acropolis, testify to its strategic position.
At the remains of the once-active mines, visitors can only imagine scenes from their peak time. The village of Kastro, once the capital of the island in antiquity, exemplifies medieval fortification architecture and continues to charm visitors with its maze of narrow streets. Access to Kastro is from the Lozies, the old entrances that secured and prevented entry. The first contiguous houses of the outer wall were inhabited by the common people, while the aristocracy resided in the interior of the settlement. - Religious wealth and folk tradition: It has churches and monasteries, many of which possess significant ecclesiastical artifacts, manuscripts, icons, etc. Outside Kastro, the church of the Seven Martyrs, standing on the cliff above the Aegean, is one of the most photographed images of Sifnos. Equally emblematic and associated with Sifnos and the Cyclades is the Panagia Chrysopigi, built on the promontory of Faro, on the southeastern coast of the island. It was once a women’s monastery.
You should also pay attention to the church of Panagia ta Gournia and that of Agios Nikolaos for the frescoes by the local Sifnian iconographer Agapios and of Ay-Giorgis the Master for the icons of 1645, works of the iconographers Zacharias Taggaropoulos and Konstantinos Palaiokapas, in the village of Agios Loukas. The monastery of Panagia Vryssi, which houses the Byzantine Art Museum with various ecclesiastical exhibits. Panagia of Ammo and Panagia Monakhi, featuring a rare icon of the Virgin Mary without the divine child.
The Monastery of Prophet Elias the Tall dates back to the 17th century and is located at an altitude of 695 meters. The climb, which requires determination, takes about two and a half hours and occurs within a protected Natura 2000 area. However, when you reach the top, you will have a view of the Cyclades: Paros, Naxos, Iraklia, Ios, Folegandros, Santorini, Milos, and Kimolos! The feast of Prophet Elias is famed throughout the Aegean and takes place on July 19th.
- Sifnian pottery: Sifnos developed and transmitted the art across all of the Cyclades. Practical and decorative vessels date back to the Early Cycladic period. Most of the places, known as tsikaladika, were located in Artemona and the surrounding settlements. Over time, when the danger of pirates diminished, workshops were established in coastal settlements: in Vathy, Platy Gialos, Kamaras, and Faro. At the pottery workshops that operate today, you will find everything from cooking utensils still used by locals, such as for mastelo (the meat cooked for Easter) and skepstaria (the famous Sifnian revithada), to plates and cups, flares (which were once chimneys but are now more decorative), etc. In Apollonia, the Folklore and Popular Art Museum operates (open April – October daily, T/ 2284033730).
The Local’s Advice
- The sifnoswizard.com suggests for the best view of the island to climb the hill where the church of Agios Andreas is located. From the churchyard, you can see about half of Sifnos – villages, dry stone walls, towers, monasteries, and even the surrounding islands.
- Discover the two botanical trails of Sifnos: the 1st trail on the route “Fyrgia – Taxiarchis Skafis,” and the 2nd trail on the route “Kastro-Poulati.”
The identification of the plants has been done by biologist Ourania Papakosta and agronomist Nikiforos Karavos, while the signs were placed by students and teachers from schools in Sifnos.