2023-12-20 16:55:57
And then the boss loses a little of her otherwise unshakable long-suffering. “Hans Haas praised us maybe once a year, that was enough, then we worked even harder. The young chefs are much more demanding, they constantly demand recognition and no longer know what self-criticism is.” She even had to do employee coaching because she didn’t recognize such character traits in herself and managing the employees was the most difficult thing about independence. But Sigi Schelling says all of this without any anger or malice, and one suspects that she knows what a blessing and sometimes a curse her unwillingness to compromise is.
Sigi Schelling now leaves his racing bike standing more often; an accident or injury would be fatal if he were self-employed. She doesn’t even have a sous chef who could replace the boss, she takes on this position herself. Hiking in the mountains, skiing in the winter, that’s still possible, preferably combined with visits to the family in the Bregenzerwald, which she still goes to always has a close relationship. A brother also delivers her the milk calf from his farm, the leg of which is braised whole and carved at the table, accompanied by artichokes, sweetbreads and Périgord truffles, supported by a 40-year-old Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Xavier Vignon, one Wine like from the fountain of eternal youth with a wonderful Janus-faced quality of freshness and maturity, wildness and wisdom – and together with the milk calf from the family breeding, a final prime example of how playfully, how calmly finesse and down-to-earthness come together in the “Werneckhof”.
Sigi Schelling cooks the way she is, she can’t do anything else, she doesn’t want anything else, that becomes clear to every guest at the latest when they eat the milk veal. Her cuisine is artful but not contrived, complex but not complicated, with a depth that is never ponderous, with a variety that never confuses. This is exemplified by the sauces, the crown jewels of her cuisine, which she never reduces or concentrates to such an extent that their aroma overwhelms itself. Instead, they always have something light and floating about them, which makes them taste even more intense. Almost every course is accompanied by the sauces, which are generally left in small bowls on the table for pouring, because generosity is the boss’s basic character trait – and the bowls almost always come back to the kitchen empty. Anything else would also be a miracle. And a crime. And a wasted thank you to the queen of Munich’s taste.
#Sigi #Schelling #Werneckhof #Munich