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spain’s Wine Renaissance: From Rioja Tradition to Avant-Garde Innovation
Spain is experiencing a dynamic evolution in its wine industry, blending centuries-old traditions with cutting-edge techniques and a renewed focus on regional identity. A recent journey across the country reveals a landscape where established estates are reimagining their legacies and emerging producers are challenging conventions, captivating both seasoned connoisseurs and a new generation of wine enthusiasts.
A Rioja Revival: Bridging Old and New
The journey began in Haro, the acknowledged capital of the Rioja wine region. Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta, founded in 1895, stands as a testament to rioja’s classical approach – prioritizing American oak aging, extended cellar maturation, and elegant blending. However, the winery is also demonstrating how to successfully integrate innovation. A key driver of this evolution is CEO Javier Bañales, who is spearheading a revival of vermouth production in the region. “Martínez Lacuesta has a long history of producing vermouths which few Rioja wineries can claim,” Bañales explained.
The winery’s wines showcase Rioja’s signature balance, with notes of red and dried fruit, silky tannins, and subtle spice. Standouts include the Reservas and Gran Reservas, particularly the appealing 2005 vintage. Hinia, a classic Rioja blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Mazuelo, is available for €22 a bottle, while the Hinia Blanco Viura magnum from 2021 retails for €120. The Campeador Rioja Reserva 2019 (€21.50) and the recently released 2012 Colección Familia (€39) further exemplify the region’s diverse offerings.
Precision Rioja: Remírez de Ganuza’s Terroir-Driven Approach
Further demonstrating Rioja’s commitment to innovation is Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza,now lead by Victoria Fernandez Salinas following the passing of fernando Remírez de Ganuza last year. The winery has become a benchmark for precision winemaking, focusing on meticulous vineyard selection and minimal intervention in the cellar. Remírez de Ganuza’s dedication to quality has transformed it into a highly sought-after estate, with wines commanding premium prices. The winery’s commitment to showcasing the unique characteristics of each vineyard plot is evident in its single-vineyard wines,which are celebrated for their complexity and elegance.
Ribera del Duero’s Luxury Estate: Abadía Retuerta
Moving south to Ribera del Duero, the landscape shifts to a more continental climate, ideal for producing powerful and concentrated Tempranillo wines. Abadía Retuerta, a stunning 12th-century abbey turned luxury wine estate, exemplifies the region’s potential. The estate has undergone significant investment in recent years, transforming it into a world-class destination for wine and gastronomy. Today, it’s a thorough wine and gastronomy group, complete with a Michelin-starred restaurant and a cellar housing over 7,500 wines. The winery’s Cuesta de las Liebres, a single Tempranillo vineyard plot planted in 1994, produces an exceptional wine available in outstanding vintages for €169.
Reviving Gredos Garnacha: La Cendra
A quieter revolution is underway in the Sierra de Gredos, west of Madrid. La Cendra, a family-run artisanal project, is focused on garnacha grown at extreme altitudes on granite soils. This high-altitude Garnacha offers surprising freshness and finesse, a departure from the heavier styles of the past. La Cendra Garnacha 2022, with scores of 92+, is priced at €22, while the white Albillo Real La Cendra 2023 is available for €16. the winery’s commitment to manual viticulture, including horse-drawn ploughs, underscores its dedication to authenticity.
Extremadura’s avant-Garde: Bodegas HABLA
The final stop was Trujillo in Extremadura, where Bodegas HABLA has transformed an overlooked region into a modern winemaking icon.Founded in 1999, HABLA’s sleek design, packaging, and branding reflect its forward-thinking approach. The HABLA No. 32, a 100% Syrah, exemplifies the elegance achievable in Extremadura’s terroir (€70). The winery is also expanding its portfolio to include Champagne, rosé, and sparkling wines, demonstrating its entrepreneurial
