2024-09-19 08:17:00
“Specialty coffee is a craft”. Alejandro Romero, a young barista under 20, points out that the production of specialty coffees is a technique closer to craftsmanship than to industry. A specialty coffee grower is meticulous in each stage of the process, making the final product unique.
HUILA DAILY, SPECIALS
By: Gustavo Patiño
“Specialty coffee is a craft.” On the Magic Coffee Route, nine kilometers from the urban center of Gigante, on the road that leads to the town of Zuluaga, is Don Arnulfo, a coffee farm dedicated to the production of specialty coffee and agrotourism, an enterprise that was born six years ago, in honor of a renowned coffee grower in the sector, who dedicated his entire life to the production of coffee.
Alejandro Romero, a young man under 20 years old who has dedicated himself to barista work, points out that Don Arnulfo, his uncle, was a very beloved person in the community. “Don Arnulfo was a member of the family, an uncle to be exact, who was a great coffee grower and gave all this passion” mentions Alejandro, highlighting that the business is based on a legacy of work and dedication to coffee growing. This close relationship with coffee has allowed the business to grow with a deep respect for traditions, but also with a vision towards the future, exploring new ways to improve the quality of the product.
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Immersion in coffee culture
The Don Arnulfo Coffee Farm is an immersive place where visitors can learn about the specialty coffee production process at every stage, from harvesting to the cup. According to Alejandro, the tour is a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the world of coffee growing: “They offer you a coffee growing tour… from the coffee seed to having it served in the cup.” This tourist approach is complemented by the offer of additional services, such as a restaurant and lodging, which allow visitors to enjoy a complete experience on the farm. In addition, one of the farm’s key attractions is a viewing point that includes a monument to the world’s largest coffee picker. These types of initiatives demonstrate the effort to link coffee culture with tourism and create added value that goes beyond the quality of the product.
Passion for coffee growing
With an expression that conveys wonder and passion for coffee growing, Alejandro explains that the process of producing specialty coffee is practically an exercise in craftsmanship. From the harvesting of the cherries to the final preparation of the cup, each stage can dramatically affect the quality of the final product. Romero mentions that “coffee can be damaged perfectly at any of its stages,” highlighting that the slightest error in the process can compromise the quality of the coffee, whether during drying, fermentation or preparation.
In particular, Alejandro points out that it is crucial to be attentive to the control of humidity, fermentation and temperature in the different phases of grain processing, as well as the quality and temperature of the water at the time of filtering it, “if I use water at a higher temperature than appropriate, I can make the coffee look like it was burnt at the time it was roasted,” he points out.
Modern technologies
The use of modern technologies such as tension and humidity meters is part of their strategy to ensure that the coffee maintains its properties and can compete nationally and internationally: “Nowadays there are many multinationals or many coffees that are used for export, there are meters in which you measure the performance factor and allow you to define the quality.” In addition, the Café Don Arnulfo production process includes a Honey method, which is an intermediate form of processing between washed coffee and natural coffee. This method helps develop complex notes in the cup, such as “caramelized notes of panela, a medium citric acidity, a silky body and a touch of red fruits,” which has led this coffee to obtain a rating of excellence that has allowed it to participate even in competitions.
‘It’s a whole world’
The 19-year-old points out that the production of specialty coffees ‘is a whole world’ and that the sector has been strengthening and becoming known to the general public, so there are more and more people interested in learning about the tasting and sensory experience that specialty coffee growing can offer. For him, specialty coffees are not just another crop, but rather require craftsmanship and a deep knowledge of each stage of the process. In this sense, he emphasizes that specialization in coffee production not only involves managing fermentation well, but also having a comprehensive approach to associative cultivation, where coffee grows alongside other plants such as fruit trees or aromatic plants, which influences the sensory profile of the product.
“We don’t think of coffee as a monoculture, but rather as an associative crop with other plants,” explains Alejandro, referring to how the characteristics of the environment can influence the final flavor of the coffee. This approach is part of what gives Café Don Arnulfo added value in the market, differentiating itself from other productions that do not pay as much attention to detail or experiment with the infusion of natural flavors that arise from the crop environment.
ABC of specialty coffee
As Alejandro points out, specialty coffee production is a meticulous task that requires the producer to have extensive knowledge of advanced techniques throughout the entire production chain. From the selection of varieties, to cultivation in precise conditions, to post-harvest handling and roasting, each stage must be aimed at maximizing the quality and flavor of the coffee, differentiating it from conventional productions.
Some of the most valued varieties when selecting the coffee variety are Bourbon, Geisha and Typica, which each have unique characteristics that adapt to different regions and altitudes, allowing them to develop exclusive flavor profiles, which is key to their differentiation in the market.
The environment in which coffees are grown is also critical. Specialty coffees are typically grown in mountainous regions, between 1,200 and 2,000 meters above sea level, which allows the coffee cherries to ripen more slowly, contributing to greater complexity in flavor and a balance in the acidity of the bean. Likewise, slow ripening contributes to a higher concentration of sugars in the cherry, resulting in greater sweetness in the cup.
Another distinctive feature of specialty coffees is the manual and selective harvesting that, unlike mechanized harvesting, involves the selection of cherries that have reached their optimal point of ripeness since, by avoiding the harvesting of unripe or overripe cherries, a greater uniformity in the flavor profile of the coffee is ensured, contributing to a much more balanced and pleasant sensory experience.
Processing methods
The coffee processing stage is another critical point. There are several methods, but the most common are washed, natural and honey. The former, which is also known as wet, tends to produce coffees with bright acidity and clean flavors; natural processing, in which whole cherries, with skins, are dried in the sun, produces coffees with heavier bodies and intense fruit flavors; the honey method is a middle ground that results in sweeter and more balanced flavors. The choice of processing method can significantly alter the final profile of the coffee and producers often experiment with these techniques to develop unique characteristics.
A recent trend in specialty coffee production is the use of controlled fermentation. Some producers have begun to incorporate specific yeasts or bacteria during the fermentation process, allowing them to accentuate certain flavors, such as fruity, floral, or acidic notes. This level of experimentation has resulted in coffees with highly complex and unique flavor profiles, which are valued by consumers and industry professionals alike.
Drying is another crucial stage that requires precise handling. In the production of specialty coffees, drying is done slowly and evenly, usually on raised beds known as “African beds.” This method ensures that the bean retains its integrity and avoids undesirable defects, such as uncontrolled fermentation, which could ruin all the work done in the previous stages.
The roasting
Roasting is the last stage before the coffee reaches the cup. Specialty coffees are usually roasted lightly or medium-high, as these roast levels bring out the inherent characteristics of the bean, such as its acidity, sweetness, and fruity or floral notes. A dark roast, on the other hand, could mask these nuances so appreciated in specialty coffees.
Traceability is another key aspect in the specialty coffee industry. Consumers highly value the ability to know the exact origin of their coffee, often all the way back to the farm where it was grown. This not only reinforces the transparency of the process, but also connects the consumer with the story behind each cup of coffee, adding emotional value to the experience.
Finally, specialty coffee production is also deeply connected to sustainable and ecological practices. Many producers opt for cultivation techniques that promote biodiversity and reduce reliance on chemical inputs. For example, associative cultivation, in which coffee plantations are intercropped with fruit trees or aromatic plants, not only benefits the ecosystem, but can also influence the flavor profile of the coffee. Some studies suggest that the proximity of coffee trees to certain tree or plant species can generate more complex flavor notes, such as fruity or floral nuances, which enrich the sensory experience of coffee.