In the northeastern Brazilian state of Ceará, a unique culinary tradition persists: the hunting and consumption of tanajura, a type of ant also known as saúva. For generations, residents of cities like Tianguá and Ubajara have sought out these protein-rich insects, particularly during the rainy season. This practice, deeply embedded in the region’s cultural fabric, offers a glimpse into a sustainable food source and a connection to ancestral practices.
“I remember starting to appear for tanajura with my grandfather when I was small, around 6 or 7 years old,” recalls Douglas Santos, a young resident of Tianguá. “We’d go by bicycle, passing through the farms.” The timing of this hunt is crucial, coinciding with the increased rainfall that prompts the ants to emerge from their nests in search of drier ground. This seasonal availability makes tanajura a highly anticipated delicacy.
The tradition isn’t limited to Ceará. It extends to inland regions of São Paulo, Minas Gerais, and Pernambuco. In Pernambuco, João Gomes and his wife, Ary Mirelle, recently sampled tanajura for the first time, enjoying it in a traditional farofa – a toasted cassava flour dish. The growing interest in this unique food source highlights its appeal beyond its traditional heartland.
Tanajura preparation varies, but a common method involves simply cleaning the ants, removing their wings and stingers, and then roasting or frying them. “Around here, we eat them with flour, as a snack,” Santos explains, noting that they can also be enjoyed with cuscuz (a steamed cornmeal cake), salted, or incorporated into more elaborate dishes. The versatility of tanajura allows it to complement a wide range of flavors, and textures.
The peak season for tanajura hunting runs from January to March, aligning with Ceará’s rainy period. During this time, locals actively search for the ants emerging from their nests. “Whenever it rained, everyone would gather and go looking for the ant nests to hunt tanajura,” Santos describes. “We’d collect them to roast at home. Usually, a lot of people are looking, and as they start to come out, we start collecting them.”
Beyond being a food source, tanajura has turn into a marketable commodity in the Serra da Ibiapaba region, sold to both tourists and locals. The insects are often prepared simply, with water and salt, and served with farinha as a snack. Marina Araujo, director of Mercado AlimentaCE, emphasizes the importance of proper preparation, advising that the head and wings be removed before cooking. “The part used in recipes is only the part known as ‘bumbum,’ which is actually the abdomen of the tanajura,” she explains. “After this process, the best way to prepare This proves to fry it in butter or oil to enhance its earthy and fatty flavor.”
Nutritional Value and Sustainability
The consumption of tanajura isn’t just a cultural practice; it’s also gaining recognition for its nutritional benefits. According to Yves Patric Quinet, a professor of Biological Sciences at the State University of Ceará (Uece) and an expert on ants, eating tanajura is not only healthy but also environmentally responsible. “Tanajura is a highly recommended source of protein, which could even replace protein from mammals, like cows, which have many negative consequences,” he states. A hundred grams of the insect contains approximately 356 calories, with 45% water and 20% protein.
Quinet points to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)’s encouragement of insect consumption as a sustainable practice. “When we eat insects, we are saving the planet from deforestation, water waste, and greenhouse gas emissions. There is no danger in consuming these animals, and it is a common and ancient habit,” he says. The structure of the ant itself contributes to its appeal; during the revoada (swarming season), the tanajura’s body is filled with energy reserves essential for establishing new colonies.
“These tanajuras are full of high-value proteins, as well as unsaturated fats and vitamin B12. They accumulate reserves during the swarming season. First, the muscles of the thorax become much more powerful for it to be able to fly. Then come the fats, because when it starts to found a colony, it goes alone, so it needs to survive until the other ants appear,” Quinet explains.
A History Rooted in Indigenous Traditions
The practice of eating tanajura dates back centuries, with evidence suggesting it was common among indigenous tribes in Brazil as early as the 17th century. In Ceará, the tradition is believed to have originated with the Tabajara tribe, who still inhabit the Serra da Ibiapaba, as documented in João Bosco Gaspar’s book, “Lendas, contos e mitos da Ibiapaba.”
Historical accounts suggest that Portuguese colonizers learned from indigenous peoples about the strengthening properties of tanajura. Legends arose, claiming that consuming the ants would grant immortality and transform individuals into powerful warriors. “This consumption of tanajuras is highly old,” Quinet notes. “It was recovered by people of European origin who settled in the north and northeast of Brazil, but this tradition is also observed in other parts of the country, thanks to the indigenous people.”
For younger generations in Ceará, the tradition appears poised to continue. “Today I am 22 years old, and people usually eat them around here, I swear. Some don’t like them, of course, but that’s normal. Some people like them, and some don’t,” says Douglas Santos, reflecting a continued acceptance of this unique culinary practice.
*Intern under the supervision of journalist Mariana Lazari.
As the rainy season continues in Ceará, the hunt for tanajura will likely remain a vibrant part of local life, offering a sustainable food source and a connection to a rich cultural heritage. The future of this tradition appears secure, sustained by both its nutritional value and its deep roots in the region’s history.
If you are interested in learning more about sustainable food sources and entomophagy (the practice of eating insects), resources are available through the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO Edible Insects).
