Oudenaarde, that’s where the Tour of Flanders arrives. But also many other treasures make this Scheldt city worth discovering. Like the tapestries, once coveted by the mighty of the earth.
You have to be careful with provincial towns. They sometimes dare to hide their true assets from the outside world. Or they only show them to people who really take the time to explore. A street, a church or a museum suddenly turns out to be home to an atypical masterpiece. Or the traces of a craftsmanship that was once world renowned. Oudenaarde is such a provincial town.
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You have to be careful with provincial towns. They sometimes dare to hide their true assets from the outside world. Or they only show them to people who really take the time to explore. A street, a church or a museum suddenly turns out to be home to an atypical masterpiece. Or the traces of a craftsmanship that was once world renowned. Oudenaarde is such a provincial town. One Sunday a year it is in the spotlight, thanks to the Tour of Flanders that has been arriving here for several years now. It remains relatively quiet for the rest of the year. And yet this Flemish Ardennes town cherishes a particularly glorious past. For centuries, Oudenaarde enjoyed world fame thanks to the tapestries that were exported to all corners of Europe. This story of master craftsmanship begins during the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453). “Until then, Oudenaarde, like so many Flemish cities, maintained close ties with England and exported woolen cloth to this country,” says city guide Michel Debaets. “Due to the war, this trade came to a complete standstill and the craftsmen in the area had to find another market for their wool. They then started making woolen tapestries. They learned the technique from weavers from Arras who had fled after their city was destroyed during the battles between the Burgundians and the French king.” Commercial success was not long in coming and peaked in the 16th and early 17th centuries. At that time, Oudenaarde tapestries could be found in the homes of many of the world’s powerful, even in the palaces and wealthy mansions of Florence and Madrid. The carpets were especially renowned for their refined verdures, scenes of lush plants in which all kinds of exotic and sometimes bizarre animals appeared. The story goes that during a stopover in Oudenaarde, Emperor Charles fell for the charms of a voluptuous daughter of a tapestry weaver. Result: a brief idyll and the birth of a natural daughter. That girl was acknowledged by her father – Charles V usually took responsibility for the fruits of his extramarital affairs. She later grew up as Margareta of Parma and became the wife of first Alexander de Medicis and then Ottavio Farnese, to end up as governor of the Netherlands. Or how carpet weaving can take you far. The golden age of the verdures is long gone, but this wealth remains clearly visible in many buildings. Not least in the Gothic town hall, which towers over the Grand Place in all its splendour. The exterior is impressive, but the interior is no less worth a visit. The antique rooms, such as the People’s Hall and the Aldermen’s Chapel, display incredible decorations and details, such as the surprising draft door, which was supposed to keep the heat in and is equipped with rich sculptures. But where are the tapestries? Don’t panic, you’ll see it a little further on. After all, part of the town hall and the adjacent cloth hall house the Mou, the museum of Oudenaarde and the Flemish Ardennes. Here hang about twenty historical and locally made tapestries. Take the time to admire the great refinement, the well-preserved colors and the many details. If you are planning a visit to the Mou soon, you can enjoy the temporary exhibition about animals in tapestries until 6 November. Also including tapestries from Edingen and Geraardsbergen, two cities in the area that were also production centers. The exhibition also gives access to a somewhat strange cabinet of curiosities. With a bit of luck you can see the last carpet restorer in town at work on her loom (normally on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons). “Until a few years ago, the city still had a large studio specialized in the restoration of tapestries, but unfortunately no longer today”, our guide laments. The town hall is of course Oudenaarde’s greatest treasure, but by no means the only one. If you follow the signposted city walk, you will automatically pass the most important sights. Not all buildings in the old streets are equally interesting, but you will still come across quite a few surprises. Often unpretentious, but fun or amusing. Such as the former city baths, the Bisschopskwartier, the strange meat hall library… One example out of many is the tiny beguinage, an oasis of peace and tranquility and at least as cute as its great counterparts in Bruges and Ghent. During your walk you will inevitably end up on the banks of the Scheldt. Cycling enthusiasts who prefer a flat course to climbing the slopes of the Oude Kwaremont or the Paterberg have known it for a long time: a wide and car-free cycle path runs along the Scheldt between Oudenaarde and Ghent, but also between Oudenaarde and Tournai. The most beautiful picture of the city also awaits on the same Scheldt bank: the view of the Pamele district. Michel Debaets: “In the Middle Ages, this district was an independent city and a rival to Oudenaarde on the other bank. The two cities only merged in the 16th century”. Pamele was a neglected neighborhood for a long time, but has now become very hip. Cross the Scheldt bridge and you will soon come face to face with the picturesque Church of Our Lady, a jewel of Scheldt Gothic. If you get the chance, go inside (the church is unfortunately often closed). In the richly decorated interior, a special feature that is rather rare in our region stands out: a reclining tomb with two levels, typical of the Renaissance. On the upper level we see the idealized images of the deceased, below we see them as highly realistic remains. Fortunately, we don’t have to end on this macabre note. Back to the Grote Markt for a refreshing drink. Oudenaarde is the capital of Oud-Vlaams Bruin, a subtly sour beer with a brown-red colour. The city once had 17 breweries that made this beer. Five of these remain, including the well-known Liefmans brewery. It is therefore better to choose one of the four others, because they are much harder to find elsewhere. More info: www.oudenaarde.be