2023-11-29 06:00:00
Time.news – The fashion industry, which generates colossal quantities of waste, is under pressure to recycle fabrics, an extremely complex task for which technical solutions are still in their infancy. NGOs warn that iThe real problem is overproduction is that technological innovations could simply be an excuse for brands to continue producing billions of new garments.
But policies aimed at combating climate change are forcing companies to position themselves in terms of reuse and circular economy. “Brands have to achieve high levels of recycling at great speed and if they don’t, the EU will fine them massively,” Paul Foulkes-Arellano, an expert on sustainability issues, told AFP. Below are 6 possible paths that can be followed in this direction.
Separate the fibers
Most clothing is made from a mixture of materials which makes it difficult to recycle. The US company Circ has invented a chemical solution to separate the most common blend, polycotton, into its constituent parts. It uses a hydrothermal process to liquefy polyester and separate it from cotton. Both can then be transformed into new fibres. The Zara brand used them for a clothing line released in April.
CIRC X ZARA
CIRC has developed a technology capable of creating new materials from polycotton multi-fibre textile waste, separating the polyester and natural cellulose it was originally produced with pic.twitter.com/jqBK9zFzvY— ZARA (@ZARA) April 17, 2023
Collection and sorting
There is a lack of infrastructure for the collection and sorting of old clothes, which must be kept clean and separated from other waste. SuperCircle brings together delivery companies, warehouses and tracking systems to streamline the process. They hope to change public attitudes with collection bins in stores, free delivery labels and other incentives.
“We need simplicity, convenience and incentives for consumers, so that when they finish an item, the first thing they think about is recycling,” said co-founder Stuart Ahlum. Starting with their own brand, Thousand Fell, they quickly expanded and now handle all recycling logistics for several companies and industries, including Uniqlo in North America.
‘In house’ recycling
Saentis Textiles has already helped overcome a major challenge with a patented machine capable of recycling cotton with minimal damage to the fibres, so that new quality fabrics can be produced. Its recycled cotton is used by brands such as Ikea, Patagonia and Tommy Hilfiger. He is now selling his machine to textile companies to install one directly in their factories, allowing them to dispose of offcuts and recycle them on site.
How Sustainability Inspires Säntis Textiles’ Creative Director – Sourcing Journal
— EU Sustain (@EU_Sustain) December 8, 2021
3D weaving machine
Unspun has invented one of the world’s first 3D machines capable of weaving a custom pair of jeans, in less than 10 minutes. It is currently building its first micro-factory in Oakland (California) to demonstrate how it works. The machine would eliminate fabric waste and reduce transportation.
Preparation of clothes
Clothes need to be prepared before they can be recycled – that’s the specialty of Cetia, a company based in France. Some of his machines are simple, like the one that removes the soles from shoes. Others are more complex. Artificial intelligence is used to recognize hard spots such as buttons and zippers. This way a laser can do the cutting without damaging the item.
Capture carbon dioxide
Rubi Labs has developed a way to capture waste carbon dioxide from factories and convert it into cellulose, similar to how trees work, where the stored CO2 is used indirectly to grow various parts. The cellulose pulp obtained can then be used to produce yarn. In July, Rubi Labs announced a pilot project with retail giant Walmart to test its innovation. It remains to be seen whether it will be possible to implement it on a large scale.
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