The Battle over Dog Meat: South Korea’s Controversial Tradition Under Scrutiny

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Outrage Grows Over South Korea’s Dog Meat Industry

PYEONGTAEK, South Korea (AP) — Kim Jong-kil, a dog meat farmer in Pyeongtaek city, is facing mounting opposition as politicians and activists seek to outlaw the controversial industry that has been his family’s livelihood for nearly three decades.

Kim, 57, stands proudly in front of the rusty cages housing his large, short-haired animals, receiving barks and stares from his canine captives. He opens a door and gently pets a dog’s neck and chest, emphasizing the bond he has developed with his livestock.

“It’s more than just feeling bad. I absolutely oppose these moves, and we’ll mobilize all our means to resist it,” Kim said in an interview at his farm.

Dog meat consumption has a long history on the Korean Peninsula and has been touted for its supposed stamina-boosting properties during hot summer days. While the practice isn’t explicitly banned or legalized in South Korea, pressure to prohibit it is growing. The rise in animal rights awareness and concerns about the country’s international reputation have fueled the anti-dog meat campaign.

The movement gained momentum recently when South Korea’s first lady expressed her support for a ban, and two lawmakers submitted bills to eliminate the dog meat trade.

Foreigners have been particularly critical of South Korea’s dog meat industry, perceiving it as incongruous with the country’s image as a wealthy, ultra-modern democracy. Unlike other countries where dog meat is consumed, South Korea is the only nation with industrial-scale farms, with most facilities housing over 500 dogs.

Kim’s own farm is one of the largest in the country, boasting 7,000 dogs. During a visit, the farm appeared relatively clean, though there were pockets of strong stench in some areas. The dogs, kept in elevated cages, are fed with food waste and ground chicken. They rarely get the chance to exercise and are typically sold for meat one year after birth.

Kim, who is passing on the business to his children, believes that the dogs bred for their meat are not the same as pets, a view vehemently opposed by activists.

While it may be difficult to find dog meat restaurants in Seoul’s bustling downtown, they still exist in the countryside. Restaurant owner Yoon Chu-wol, 77, laments the declining patronage, as younger people are turning away from the controversial cuisine.

“I only earn one-third of the money I used to make. Young people don’t come here. Only ailing old people come for lunch,” Yoon said. “I tell my elderly customers to come and eat my food more frequently before it’s banned.”

Farmers like Kim face increasing scrutiny from both officials and the public. Complaints filed by activists and citizens alleging animal abuse and other wrongdoing have led to repeated visits from officials. Kim revealed that more than 90 petitions were filed against his farm in just a four-month span.

Son Won Hak, the general secretary of the dog farmers’ association, claimed that many farms have collapsed in recent years due to falling dog meat prices and decreased demand. He believes this is a direct result of activist campaigns and negative media coverage focused on farms with subpar conditions. However, others contend that consumption of dog meat was already on the decline, with younger generations shunning the practice.

The number of dog farms in South Korea has dropped by half in the past few years, with estimates ranging from 3,000 to 4,000 currently. The annual number of dogs slaughtered has also decreased, ranging from 700,000 to 1 million, compared to several million a decade or two ago, according to the dog farmers’ association. Critics argue that these estimates are inflated to present the industry as too large to dismantle.

In late 2021, South Korea established a government-civilian task force to discuss the possibility of outlawing dog meat. The committee, consisting of farmers and animal rights activists, has met over 20 times but has yet to reach an agreement, primarily due to disputes over compensation.

Agriculture officials have provided limited information about the closed-door discussions, noting that the government aims to end dog meat consumption through a public consensus.

In April, the country’s first lady, Kim Keon Hee, expressed her desire to end dog meat consumption. Farmers responded with rallies and formal complaints against her, alleging damage to their livelihoods.

Lawmaker Han Jeoungae, who proposed a bill to support farmers in transitioning away from the industry, commended influential figures speaking out against dog meat consumption. Her bill offers assistance programs, including financial support and vocational training, for farmers who agree to close their businesses.

Despite the controversy, dog meat farmers like Ju Yeongbong, who hope for the industry to naturally disappear as their main customers age, insist on continuing for another 20 years. However, activists argue that the prolonged killing of millions of dogs is unacceptable.

“(Dog meat consumption) is too anachronistic, has elements of cruelty to animals, and hinders our national growth,” said Cheon JinKyung, head of Korea Animal Rights Advocates in Seoul.

As the debate rages on, the future of South Korea’s dog meat industry remains uncertain, as public opinion and evolving societal values continue to shape the fate of this centuries-old practice.

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