2023-09-01 18:30:00
Professional chef at work
Top cuisine in Germany rarely pays for itself.
(Foto: E+/Getty Images)
Dusseldorf The fact that the Gut Lärchenhof restaurant, with Torben Schuster, the newly crowned chef of the year, is located in the clubhouse of a golf club near Cologne may seem surprising at first glance. Top cuisine in Germany rarely pays for itself.
There are restaurants in hotels or those that have an investor in the background, that can economically afford to buy the best products and convince guests and critics alike with sufficient staff and good facilities.
In the eyes of the restaurant critics, Schuster deserved the title for his very individual culinary art. Gut Lärchenhof has been known for its excellent restaurant cuisine for many years, including by the previous chefs de cuisine. The entrepreneurial decision to focus on haute cuisine is evidently paying off.
The top 10 of the Gusto restaurant guide
The restaurants with the highest rating
10 Gusto pans with up arrow
Aqua, Wolfsburg
Jan, Munich
nice restaurant., Piesport
Schwarzwaldstube, Baiersbronn (Tonbach)
Sonnora, Dreis
The Table Kevin Fehling, Hamburg (Hafencity)
Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau, Perl (Nennig)
10 Gusto pans
Courtier, Weissenhaus
Poet, Rottach-Egern
Facil, Berlin (Tiergarten)
Falco, Leipzig
GästeHaus Klaus Erfort, Saarbrücken
Gourmet restaurant Bareiss, Baiersbronn (Mitteltal)
Haerlin, Hamburg (Neustadt)
Horváth, Berlin (Kreuzberg)
Dirk Luther dairy, Glücksburg
Ophelia, Constance
Rutz Restaurant, Berlin (middle)
Tim Raue, Berlin (centre)
Vendome, Bergisch-Gladbach (Bensberg)
Top 10 – the most exciting newcomers
Jacobi, Freiburg
SAMS, Kirchheim/Teck
Cédric, Weinstadt
Brothers, Munich
JAN, Munich
Victor & Victoria, Berlin
Imperial Kitchen, Oldenburg
PULS Restaurant, Cologne
Ochs & Schwan, Kirchheim
Wibbelingshof, Dortmund
Top 10 – Gourmet-Lunch
Facil, Berlin
Tim Raue, Berlin
JAN, Munich
Bareiss, Baiersbronn
GästeHaus Klaus Erfort, Saarbrücken
Essigbrätlein, Nuremberg
To the Wolf’s Cave, Freiburg
Sonnora, Dreis
Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau, Perl (Nennig)
nice restaurant., Piesport
Top 10 – Top vegetarian cuisine
Schiller’s Manufactory, Koblenz
Seven Swans, Frankfurt
Lamm Rosswag, Vaihingen
Home jewel, Hamburg
Stadtpfeiffer, Leipzig
Green Beetle, München
Lafleur, Frankfurt
It was Berlin
Zeik, Hamburg
Cordo, Berlin (Yannick Stockhausen)
This is likely to remain the case even if VAT on food is increased again to 19 percent. For the catering trade, however, the increase planned by the federal government is considered a threat, says Markus Oberhäußer, editor-in-chief of the specialist magazine Gusto: “It will break the neck of some companies.”
The reduction to seven percent on food was intended to help the catering industry, which was badly affected by the corona pandemic. However, many companies also use them to offset the recent sharp rise in costs for ingredients, staff and energy.
And so many politicians across party lines are criticizing the planned return to 19 percent. In the ARD summer interview in mid-August, SPD chairwoman Saskia Esken advocated continuing the reduced VAT rate in gastronomy. Berlin’s Lord Mayor Kai Wegener (CDU) demanded the same thing this week.
According to the restaurant critics, landlords have rarely passed the reduction in VAT on to the guests. Rather, the testers had higher bills compared to previous years: “You notice it even more in normal and ambitious gastronomy that the average receipt is higher, less in the absolute top segment,” says Oberhäußer.
It is therefore not surprising that in Berlin, for example, after observing the taste, many restaurants still had capacity at the beginning of the year. This is also noteworthy insofar as Oberhäußer sees another trend intensifying. A lack of specialist staff is forcing more and more restaurateurs to reduce their opening hours.
Even in the top segment, the opening days are often reduced to four days and only opened in the evening. The service times are then more likely to be from Wednesday to Saturday. This also means problems for the testers when visiting the restaurants. This year, Gusto had to reduce the number of addresses visited.
More: Johann Lafer on the challenges of star cuisine
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