2024-03-19 05:03:26
The Crott Wine Bar quickly replaced the celebrated Gan Sychemim restaurant, and produces from its kitchen equally good dishes of French classics with a great twist
A year ago, in the midst of the protest against the coup d’état, members of the we like you too group (brothers Regev and Shagy Evron and their partners) opened the “Gan Shechemim” restaurant in Gan Ya’akov led by the young chef Dana Lee Berman, who was then heavily pregnant.
Tel Aviv managed well in turn and completed the praise, righteously, on the new place.
Then, last January, in the middle of the war, Berman announced her surprising retirement from the successful restaurant and move to Romania. Rumors strongly claim that Berman simply received a professional offer that she couldn’t refuse. “I got into an illogical situation with the mothers and the restaurant,” she says. “The restaurant was a dream come true and I wanted to continue it. I tried to convince my partners that it made sense. Unfortunately, we didn’t reach an agreement and they didn’t see an option to let me enjoy both worlds, so we parted ways.”
A few moments after the closing announcement, the owners of the house already announced the new place, with no less reputable and successful partners – chefs Aviad Peled and Uri Steinberg from the restaurant “Pra”, which also belongs to the group, and it has already been written here that it is one of the best restaurants in Tel Aviv in recent years.
1 Viewing the gallery
Pate Croute
(Photo: Aviad Peled)
Within a few weeks, the two reopened “Croute” with their partners (short for “pate en croute”, the professional French name for meat pastry wrapped in dough), and indeed, almost everything served here is wrapped in dough. Starting, of course, with that famous pâte which comes here without the jelly that separates the meat from the dough in France (I don’t really lack it), but is made with a confident hand that would not shame even a French charcutier and contains pork and its offal, with pistachios for decoration, inside a great dough.
The celebration continues with a spinach cake cooked in a creamy broth with crabmeat and bacon in a wrapped dough, a fish salami sausage and cheddar cheese in a croissant dough that is served with pickled fennel and aioli – a kind of seafood and gourmet “Moses in a box”, if you will: a really unusual departure and delicious in an illegal way. They also serve tortellini stuffed with pecorino cheese and bacon that are slathered in butter sauce and crispy pieces of bacon and fried sage leaves – and they are no less successful.
Even the bread dish is really wonderful: a baguette made from Khorasan sourdough flour that is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside and a wonderful sourdough bread made from wholemeal flours and freaky seeds with strong aniseed seasoning of fennel seeds, coriander seeds and cumin seeds. All the dishes, including the bread, were insanely delicious, unusual and special.
The elaborate, inexpensive dishes (although small, but satisfying) are accompanied by an extensive and fascinating wine menu. We drank a glass of French white Muscada from the Loire Valley, a glass of French Cabernet Franc and a glass of natural Greek red wine from Mavro grapes. They are all great. In short, “Krot” is actually another wine bar. But what a beauty of a wine bar.
“Krot”, Gan Yaakov, Tel Aviv
#Moshe #box #gourmet #version