2024-03-01 12:11:52
The world-famous climber was a special guest on the day of the open doors of the large-scale sports facility
Many countries do not have such great climbing halls. It is important for people in Bulgaria to understand that climbing is a great sport, believes the world champion and Olympic medalist
Jacob Schubert was born on December 31, 1990 in Innsbruck (Au). One of the legends of sport climbing, a four-time World Cup winner, three-time world champion and bronze medalist at the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. If he hadn’t become a climbing star, Yogi, as he’s known to his friends, would most likely is a professional soccer player or a math or physics major.
– Jacob, are you coming to Bulgaria for the first time?
– No, I have been here before, but not in Sofia. A long time ago – 15 years ago, I participated in a competition in Veliko Tarnovo. I was there twice because of the European Youth Cup. I have good memories since then. But I am in Sofia for the first time.
– You are here for the opening of the new “Balkan” climbing hall.
– Yes exactly.
– Did you get to see the facility?
– Yes, they showed me all the rooms that the climbing center has. I am really very impressed and it was a great pleasure to climb the walls.
– If you have to compare this hall with similar ones abroad, what is your opinion?
– Yes, I have been in many climbing halls around the world and I think that in Bulgaria you can be happy with this facility. Many countries do not have such great climbing halls, this one here will be extremely useful for the competitors and for the talents that will have the opportunity to develop. It is very important for the country to have a good infrastructure, and the one here really is, and this is a very successful start.
– Do you have many friends among climbers in Bulgaria?
– Yes, I have. There aren’t many of your competitors in World Cup tournaments, but I know some. For example, Nikolay Rusev, with whom I have participated in competitions several times. I think he is a promising talent. You also have several other very strong competitors and I hope that more good Bulgarian climbers will grow up in this hall. It is important that this sport becomes popular among more people. The goal is for more people in Bulgaria to understand that our sport is great. This will help build more strong competitors on your side. The important thing is to arouse interest in climbing among all those who love the sport.
– Can we say that climbing is a sport for everyone?
– Climbing is an amazing sport for everyone. It doesn’t matter if you are short or tall, what your weight is. Everyone can climb – young and old alike. I have seen 80 year olds do this sport and do it quite well. It is a healthy sport that does not lead to many and serious injuries, is good for the body and keeps you in shape. Climbing is a social sport that you can practice with friends and enjoy. Here’s an example – when I started, the same people came to the gym in my city and we all knew each other. Gradually, interest grew and a new hall, 20 times larger, had to be built.
– Is there a practice among good climbers to visit different countries to familiarize themselves with the local conditions for this sport?
– Yes, many competitors travel often. When you have suitable conditions and a good hall in your own country, you travel less often, of course. But those who do not have the conditions have to train abroad. I am lucky because in Austria we have a very large climbing center and a strong federation that provides us with great training conditions. For this reason, I don’t travel that often, but sometimes I do to train with colleagues from other countries. It’s always motivating to train with strong competitors and try different gear. The more you learn, the better.
– How did you choose climbing? You are from Innsbruck and it seems more logical to do winter sports.
– I’ve been skiing, but as a child you can’t really judge what’s best for you based on your body type. I also played soccer when I was younger. But when I tried climbing, I liked it the most. In addition, I once made friends and this sport really grabbed me. At no point did I stop climbing – it is one of the best, I would even say the best sport.
– Do you accept climbing as a philosophy in life and not just as a challenge when you stand in front of the wall?
– Yes, climbing is something special, for me it is not only a hobby, but also a profession. Even in my spare time, when I don’t have competitions, I don’t stop climbing. I’m looking for rocks, places I’ve never been. For this, in many ways, it is a way of life.
– Only the sky is above you…
– Yes exactly.
– What is the most difficult route you have climbed?
– Last year I participated in one of the toughest places in Norway. I succeeded, but it was really the hardest.
– What was the reaction of your parents when they found out that you were going to climb?
– I was 12 years old and sports had already become one of my favorite activities. Your parents knew it, they drove me to soccer practice, then they had to change routes and drive me to climbing practice. It didn’t change things much for them, they weren’t happy to see that I was actually enjoying myself. Parents do everything to make their children happy. This is about good parents, and mine were, and they supported me in everything I did.
– Do you have a favorite route in Bulgaria?
– Unfortunately, I’ve never rock climbed here. But I for one want to come again and do exactly that. I saw pictures of many interesting places.
– What advice would you give to young people who want to do climbing?
– It is important to give them pleasure and to have the necessary motivation. It’s also important that they train in the right company – with friends with similar skills, because that’s how they’ll challenge each other and that’s how they’ll move up. As I already said – to the sky. But the most important condition to become a successful competitor is to believe in yourself. And never give up on the way to your goals.
– Are you scared while climbing?
– No, I don’t think climbing is a dangerous sport. I was never afraid that I might get injured. Especially when climbing indoors, because safety is ensured by a mat or rope. I would not make a comparison with motor sports, where crashes are often fatal. If you follow the rules, climbing is a safe sport. I will say again that it is very important to believe in yourself even when you make mistakes.
– Do you have new goals as a professional athlete? Like climbing unfamiliar routes?
– Of course. For me, the places to climb will never end. There are so many crags and routes around the world. Furthermore, climbing is a diverse sport with many disciplines. There are still many things I want to achieve. At the moment, my goal is close – the Olympic Games in Paris are coming up, where I want to perform strongly and hopefully win a gold medal. But I also have more distant goals.
– Where does your Olympic medal from the Tokyo Games rank among other honors in your career?
– It is difficult to make a comparison. Before Tokyo, climbing was not an Olympic sport and the most important competition was the world championships and I am very proud of these medals. But the Olympics was something really special. When you go there as a favorite and everyone expects you to win at least a medal, the pressure is greater and the challenge is stronger. The pressure on me was huge and the bronze medal will always remind me of that time. It was an extremely emotional moment for me. I am proud of this success.
– Was it more difficult at the Olympics because of the restrictions and measures against the coronavirus?
– It was definitely not very fun because of the few spectators. It’s always nicer to climb in front of thousands of people cheering you on. But sport is something really special, we love it and we always try to give our best. It is also important that people feel pleasure when they look at us. That’s what makes me even happier. In front of full stands it’s different because I feel the energy of the people, I feel how excited they are and that always makes me happy with myself. And that’s exactly what I missed because of the pandemic.
Ivaylo Radkov: The chance to participate in the Olympics is really great
Climbing is already an Olympic sport, and in this line of thinking the new Balkan Hall will help to promote our sport as a whole. Furthermore, the hall is designed for all climbing and for everyone, whether competitive or amateur. The sports facility has with a special children’s area that is secured as well as the outer wall that is in the shade and the summer will be superb for climbing.Our top competitors Alexandra Totkova and Nikolay Rusev who will fight for Olympic quotas can train at these walls and have the most modern grips that are used all over the world. We also reach our pride – people like Nikolay Petkov, Kuncho Dolapchiev, Trifon Jambazov. These are climbers from the Everest expedition in 1984. These people have never continued to be active. It is a great pride for us that there are such Bulgarians.
This was shared by Ivaylo Radkov, national coach and representative of the “Balkan” gym.
Odds for the Paris Games will be known after the competitions in Shanghai and Budapest. A general ranking will be made and then it will be clear who takes any of the 10 quotas. Our chance is great because only two from a nation have the right to participate in the Olympics, Radkov believes.
How would I explain the basics of your sport to the average person on the street? It is the most natural sport because before you are even a walker you start trying to climb. You grab the bed, start crawling on the radiator – this is the most natural way of moving. We want more people to know that this sport is now completely accessible, safe and extremely effective for training.