ZTwo blond sisters in their restaurant, which shares their name: “Les Deux Dienstbach” was a restaurant in Wiesbaden for a good ten years, in an old pharmacy. The pandemic has forced a reorientation; In 2021, Jennifer and Nathalie Dienstbach, both trained in gastronomy, Nathalie Dienstbach as a cook, moved to Hochheim, to the Künstler winery. There they serve the guests of the farm tavern with small dishes to pick up yourself. They have now also opened a restaurant in a side wing of the complex; again it is “Les Deux Dienstbach”. The sometimes very simple country cuisine, which was often on the menu in Wiesbaden, has given way to more sophisticated culinary and visual options.
There are three menus to choose from, one of which is vegetarian, and each has five courses, one of which is a cheese course. They can be shortened to three courses and also swapped between the menus, which reduces the somewhat strict impression that menus without an à la carte offer often make at first glance. The sauces and dips are striking in many dishes; they have the complex tone of freshness created by the trenchant use of herbs and exotic elements.
A classic vinaigrette with a quartered artichoke, for example, complements a dollop of yuzu-flavored mayonnaise. Wonderfully firm, juicy, flavorful black-feather chicken breast and thighs lie, crispy, browned side up, in a chicken reduction jus flavored with chili, ginger, kaffir lime, and garlic. The poultry is accompanied by cauliflower puree, roasted cauliflower and green asparagus.
A dumpling of tarragon butter has summery intensity with a grilled entrecote with a millefeuille of thin, grilled potato slices. A salad of green and white asparagus contributes a slight bitterness and delicate acidity, so that overall there is no excessive heaviness despite the dominant strand of steak and herb butter. What was interesting was the presentation of a starter that was designated as a soup with rather little liquid and braised asparagus, chive oil, some orange sauce and tiny fried potato cubes as the main actors: good, but the element orange does not appear to be a culinary element.