Published on 14.11.2022
The Tuscany region is one of the most important areas for growing wine in Italy; An area where the great Chianti Classico wines are produced, decorated with the black rooster. My favorite wine from this region is Brunello di Montalcino, along with other wines such as Vino Nobilla di Montepulciano and many more of the classic wines of the Tuscan region.
Wine production in the Tuscany region is defined by the DOC (PDO) regulations dealing with the growing and processing of Sangiovese; The main grape variety in the region. However, in the seventies of the last century, the local inhabitants of the Bolgheri area began to grow Bordeaux grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, along with other varieties, and in fact this is how the Super Tuscan wine industry began to develop.
The pioneers of the Super Tuscan industry were the Antinori family who began growing and producing wines from Bordeaux varieties for the family’s own consumption. The first vines were made up of Cabernet Sauvignon vines brought from the legendary Château Lafite Rothschild winery in Bordeaux. The family began to produce wine in a manner similar to the production of wine in Bordeaux in small barrique barrels. These wines were characterized as powerful tannic wines with strong wood flavors. Tastes that were foreign and different to the locals who tasted the wine and were not enthusiastic about it, to say the least, but the Antinori family continued to produce the wines. Over the course of several years, these wines developed into high-quality and fine wines, the rumor about these wines is widespread among many and the family, encouraged by the demand, decided to do something unusual and unacceptable at that time: for the first time in 1968, the Marquis Mario Insce della Rochetta, in his estate in Bulgari on the Livorno at the Tenuta San Guido winery, bottled and marketed the first Super Tuscan wine in history – the 1968 Saccia wine.
The wine is made from a Bordeaux blend, the majority of which was Cabernet Sauvignon. Since the wine did not comply with the DOC regulations, it received the lowest rating for an Italian wine Vino Da Tavola, meaning a basic table wine. And here the revolution began, when these “simple” wines were in huge demand and their price quickly skyrocketed. Then nicknames were also established: “Super Tuscans”.
The entry into the market of Super Tuscan wines led to a dramatic change in the production of local wines in Tuscany; Change in legislation for the way in which wine production is approved, including a change in the grape varieties to be grown, and in the blend. For example, the need to incorporate white grape varieties into the blend was abolished and the law allowed the incorporation of various non-local varieties, including Bordeaux varieties, up to a volume of 15% of the blend. The Super Tuscan revolution also led to the improvement of winemaking techniques and the improvement of traditional Tuscan wines, to the delight of all of us.
Sasikaya
The vineyards of the Sassicaia winery are planted at an altitude of 400 meters, on the hills of Castiglioncello di Bulgari characterized by their gravelly soil. Hence the name of the wine: Sassikaia translated into Hebrew is “field of stones”. The climate in the Bulgarian region is very similar to the climate in Bordeaux and because of this the region allows the Bordeaux varieties to develop and produce very good quality grapes.
The winemaking process is unique since the harvest begins before the grapes reach full maturity. The primary fermentation (alcoholic fermentation) and secondary (malolactic fermentation) are carried out in stainless steel tanks on natural yeasts and are conducted at a temperature of 28-30 degrees Celsius.
Other explanations for the quality of the wines in the Bulgarian region compared to Bordeaux, is the thinning and reduction of the amount of grapes; An operation that improves the quality of the grapes and is done in a more massive way than the way it is done in Bordeaux. The geographic location and climate conditions unique to the region, including the proximity to the sea (approximately three kilometers from the west coast of Italy) also enable the production of quality wine that competes equally with Bordeaux wines.
Tonight in our wine forum we pay tribute to this huge wine, the first super Tuscan, in a long tasting of ten Sassicaia wines. Starting from the 1996 harvest until the 2018 harvest under the leadership of the grape man, Haim Gan, in honor of the birthday of a dear member of our group.
Long tastings of one wine, made in one winery, from different vintage years, are not very common events. The interesting thing about long tastings is that they are a kind of journey through time of the winery and the winemaker, during which you can try to understand what happened in the production process of the wine, the development of the wine in the bottle and sometimes also gauge the differences between the vintage years and evaluate the drinking windows and aging potential of the wine.
First we opened all the bottles. It was easy to notice the quality of the cork used by the winery for Ssikaia wines; Very compressed and high quality cork. Corks with a length of 33 mm that have been bleached, in order to prevent the formation of TCA. However, to our great surprise and disappointment, the wine from the 2012 vintage was found to be stale due to TCA and was not suitable for drinking. It is important to emphasize that this is not a problem with the vintage or the winery and such faults appear in small percentages Very much and in every winery.
The table was well prepared with aged cheeses, butter, sausages and breads and ready for the beginning of the tasting, which we started withWine from the 1996 vintage. (12.5% alcohol, spillage of the wine about 60% along the cork) smells of moss, earth, mushrooms – typical of tertiary smells. Lively on the nose, simulated sweetness, high acidity, very light body, almost non-existent fruit. The wine was flat, and in our opinion it would have been good to open it a few years ago.
1998 vintage (13% alcohol, spillage of the wine about 30% in cork) (The wine is amazing even kicking and powerful. Smells of baked apple, smells of black fruit, raspberry, cooked blueberries, tobacco and licorice. In the taste of the wine it turns out to be a powerful wine, very tannic with an after taste long. The wine is ready to drink and is at the end of the plateau period of its life, it is recommended to drink now.
Athanatha is easy to serve the unique and special Iraqi kebab of the host, with full observance of all the rules of ceremony and tradition for eating an Iraqi kebab.
We continued the tasting in1999 vintage (13% alcohol, leakage of about 30% in cork). The wine has aromas of tar, deep black and ripe fruit, very closed and dusty nose. A pronounced acidity is evident in the taste. A closed wine, which after 10 minutes opens a little, with ripe fruit of raspberry, plum, a little black pepper, gentle and caressing tannin.
The next wine was wine from2004 vintage (13.5% alcohol, spillage of 25% in cork). The wine is wonderful – Sasikaia at its best. Scents of leather, ripe black fruit, black raspberry, aromas of spice combined with oak. In the tasting, surprisingly, the wine was still closed, with pronounced tannins and high acidity, lively, with a long aftertaste. In this wine we felt the change that took place in the winery, where new technology was introduced and thanks to it we got a polished, precise and balanced wine; A very Bordeaux wine in character, a huge wine, which was the best so far in the tasting.
The next wine was from2013 vintage (13.5% alcohol, the cork is clean and perfect). There were tartaric acid deposits on the cork. The nose was hard and very closed. After a few minutes and oxidation of the wine it opens, with aromas of black fruit such as plums, tar and more. In the tasting, the hot year is expressed, with high sweetness, pungent alcoholism, and so on. There was no connection between the tree and the fruit and in relation to the wines so far and those that will come after it, it was a little disappointing.
We stopped the tasting to accumulate proteins and strength for the rest of the way. Beautifully aged sirloin and entrecote cuts seared to just the right degree were served to the table.
The next wine 2015 vintage (14% alcohol, clean and perfect cork). Scents of oak, rich fruit, buttery and lactic. In the tasting, the tannins were very emphasized, along with flavors and aromas of oak. The 2015 vintage proved to be a powerful and kicking wine with a long finish. It was a balanced, very closed wine that is still very early to drink and can continue to develop for at least a decade to come; wonderful wine
The next wine 2016 vintage (14% alcohol, clean and perfect cork). Scents of fine asphalt, gunpowder, seasoning, green herbage alongside rich florals. The wine was closed and it was necessary to wait a few more good minutes with good oxidation and agitation to enjoy it. In the tasting, the wine had a strong astringency and pronounced acidity, powerful and with a long aftertaste; This wonderful wine surpassed its predecessor from the 2015 vintage and turned out to be a huge wine with the potential to age and improve for many years to come.
After two great wines and to relax from the experience, pieces of beautifully prepared beef fillet, soft and pleasant, made by the master hand of the host and his assistants, were served to the table.
The next wine from2017 vintage (14% alcohol, clean and perfect cork). A wine with subtle aromas of wood, black fruit, asphalt and tar. In the taste it was very closed with low fruit intensity and high alcohol, hard tannins and unbalanced. It was disappointing, especially compared to the two great vintages that preceded it.
The wine that closed the tasting was Sasikaya from the 2018 vintage (13.5% alcohol, clean and perfect cork). Aromas of black fruit, plum and raspberry, oak, spice and fresh green herbage rose from the wine. In the tasting, the wine was very powerful, with a long finish, pronounced tannins, excellent acidity and rich fruit. The 2018 vintage was incredibly balanced; A great wine that will continue to develop and be praised for many years to come, simply wonderful.
To sum up the tasting, we can say that all the wines of Sasikaia are made in a wonderful way. Every year has its own uniqueness and characteristics – for better and for worse. But these are all fine wines. It was an interesting and enlightening tasting. The wines from the last vintages were green and young, while most of the wines had excellent aging and development capacity. The wines of the 2004 vintage – which reflected this ability, and the 2016 and 2018 wines that still had many years to develop and improve over time – stood out. buy and keep
Finally friends, as in every area of our modern life, we enjoy the inventions of special people who dared to break frames and go outside the box. People with a dream and a vision who, despite the difficulties and oppositions, pave the way for those who come after them. Marquis Mario Insce Della Rocheta of the Tenuta San Guido winery changed “world orders” when he moved to Bulgarian from the Chianti region. He decided to make Bordeaux-style wine in Tuscany and began growing Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Thanks to him, the legendary Sassikaia wine came into the world, which very shortly after it hit the markets became not only a sought-after wine, which was stolen from the shelves in a short time, but one that changed perceptions and production processes in an area that was, until then, incredibly traditional.
Have a good life, and see you at the next tasting
Uzi Barzilai