2024-07-05 17:31:20
Sunscreen is a summer essential to protect against sunburn and prevent skin cancer. But are all the products effective? Céline Couteau, doctor of pharmacy at the University of Nantes (Loire-Atlantique), took study on the subject with his colleague Laurence Coiffard, the results of which were published on their site “Regard sur les Cosmetics” in May.
Of the fifty markets analyzed, “the vast majority fell outside the expected values,” he explained. In other words, they are not as effective as they claim. And: “Year after year, as our studies progress, we see that the market is getting worse. »
SPF to watch with caution
When choosing a sunscreen product, the first thing to look for is the SPF index. Higher, greater protective action against UVB rays, responsible for sunburn and many skin diseases. SPF 50 and 50+ should provide the best protection.
Except that among the 17 sunscreens studied showing SPF values of 50 or 50 + or showing no value, “we did not comply with the values shown in almost 70% of the cases, ” notes Céline Couteau. The study stated that “the differences observed between the measurements made in the fridge (in the laboratory) by us and the values shown on the box vary from 6 units in the best case to 38 units in the worst case.
The consumer group UFC-Que Choisir, also noted the large gap between SPF disclosure and reality. About a third of the major sunscreens that advertise SPF 50 don’t provide optimal protection, he noted. According to its position published in April, “5 out of 13 indications” did not come out of fate, including the brands Vichy, Biotherm, Lancaster, Isdin and Rituals. The group is calling for the withdrawal of the affected products and has contacted the General Commission for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF).
A product without mineral filters and without alcohol
For better protection, Céline Couteau does not recommend sunscreens with mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium oxide). For the latter, “the observed differences between our measurements and the displayed values vary from 22 units in the best case to 40 units in the worst case. » On the other hand, the values are easily more easily for index 30. An observation shared by UFC-Que Choisir which considers it “complex to achieve SFP 50 +” with these physical barriers.
Another trap to avoid is getting a sunscreen product with alcohol as an ingredient. “We are really fighting against this for the good reason that alcohol will promote the penetration of UV filters into the skin. Therefore they will go into the blood stream and be distributed to different parts of the body,” emphasized the researcher. In contrast, A-Derma, Bariesun and Bioderma sunscreen products stand out with “effective, alcohol-free formulas”.
Céline Couteau also warns against sometimes misleading marketing, such as with sunscreen products specially designed for babies. “They don’t provide more protection and we don’t give sunscreen to children under one year old. He had to protect himself from the sun’s rays under control, with clothes and a hat,” he recalled.
The professional also emphasizes the need to use the product in a thick layer, every two hours and when exposed to the sun. Not before. Finally, sunscreen should not be used from one year to the next. “There is little movement in the SPF level, but there is a risk of change,” concluded. Filters degrade, producing waste, some of which can be toxic. »
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