It is a futuristic Paris that accompanies the second day of fashion shows. In a minimalist space designed inside the Carreau du Temple in the third arrondissement, under pouring rain,
Nicholas DiFelice presents his new collection for Courrèges.
Models, wrapped in cocoon coats and rigorous silhouettes, walk in a space that is at times aseptic, developed around a large circle, where silver pearls move through a raven sieve ten meters in diameter. «Ça vient par vague» (
It comes like the wavesed.) explains the artistic director, underlining how the perpetual motion of the waves, with their revealing themselves and then disappearing into nothingness, is the basis of the collection.
A simple and rigorous elegance, as told by the same palette that ranges from white to black to play with shades of nude. Articulated geometries and solid volumes that reveal the body through transparent, almost impalpable fabrics, or that hide it in shy contemplation. There is the charm of space, of the beyond, but also a clear reference to the minimalist aesthetic of Helmut Lang in the Nineties.
First parade since the farewell of
Dries Van Noten in fashion, which took place last March, the collection of the eponymous fashion house is a tribute to its founder – the first to burst into thunderous applause at the end of the show. In fact, if the creative in a recent interview with Vogue Italy he had stated that «prints, but also colour, are the tools I use to tell my stories», these two elements represent the red thread of the collection for next Spring Summer.
A rich palette that draws inspiration from the petals of a flower to caress the feminine silhouette through impalpable fabrics and a play of overlapping, another detail characterising the aesthetics of
From NutsGreen, already seen on the Gucci catwalk in Milan, appears once again, alongside vibrant pinks and oranges and the most intense blue.
Is the future of the maison already written in the hands of one of the members of the designer studio? After the appointments, in the past, of
Alexander Michael from Gucci and that of Sarah Burton from Alexander McQueen, even Dries Van Noten’s future could already be written in this collection.
The absolute star of the Rabanne show, the 1969 nano bag — made with 18-karat gold discs worth 250,000 euros — has sparked the curiosity of enthusiasts all over the world. An exclusive collection, the one for Spring Summer 2025, designed by
Julien Dossena starting from the maison’s archive.
In a marked play of contrasts that starts from the everyday with striped shirts and oversized silhouettes to arrive at the opulence and glamour of gold, Rabanne reinterprets the historic craftsmanship of the maison with a contemporary vision, which finds inspiration in the utility universe, declined in a sartorial key.
It is an alien everyday life, the one brought on stage by Jonny Johansson for Acne Studios. The director says he was inspired by an imaginary domestic setting for his new collection, a feeling that is clear from the moment you enter the venue, dotted with sofas, lamps and tamed animals curated by the American visual artist Jonathan Lindon Chase.
“I asked myself if classic domestic codes could be translated into fashion,” says Johansson, staging a collection in bright colors where dressing becomes a game of colors, drapes and jeweled details. The bags appear deformed and creased, the tips of the shoes seem to extend infinitely, the classic sweater transforms into a skirt with dangling sleeves and the tapestry is declined on jeans and sweaters.
A return to the aesthetic canons of the maison that have characterised the 13 years that have now passed since Olivier Rousteing as creative director of Balmain. The Spring Summer 2025 collection starts from here. Broad shoulders and a marked sensuality. Structured shapes and elaborate decorations in pearls and photorealistic embroidery follow one another on the catwalk while the models hold precious bottles of perfume in their hands, marking the debut in the beauty universe of the French fashion house.
Rousteing thus introduces the haute perfumery collection that embodies the bold identity of the brand, while cosmetic bags transformed into handbags hint at the imminent arrival of a make-up line. Closing the show, draped silk dresses in delicate shades, which, despite their simplicity, keep intact the message of emancipation and strength of the maison Balmain.