2023-04-20 20:04:45
The miracle of Ulm: What four hands can do in a gourmet restaurant is impressively demonstrated in the “Seestern”.
Image: Restaurant Starfish
How do you manage to have only two people in the kitchen and still meet the requirements of a Michelin star? The two chefs at “Seestern” in Ulm provide the answer. The “A Matter of Taste” column.
In piano music, playing four hands is an enormous challenge because it demands blind trust, unconditional agreement and absolute equality from the two soloists. Such a game is almost impossible in the kitchen, because its quality depends on the strength of character of a leader, whose commands are returned with a determined “Oui, Chef” from the brigade.
Klaus Buderath and Benedikt Wittek try anyway. They have banned the brigade from their restaurant “Seestern” in Ulm’s Hotel Lago, the two of them stand alone in the kitchen and achieve amazing things night after night: four hands, eight courses, twenty envelopes, a highly concentrated, meticulously organized, virtuoso orchestrated interplay free from all discordant tones, in which one feels again and again as if Nannerl and Wolferl were at work in the kitchen of the Mozart house.
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