California Food Desert Spurs Desperate Measures for Chef
In the midst of a growing food crisis in California, renowned chef finds hope in an unexpected opportunity.
The devastating effects of a food desert in California have been brought to light in a poignant excerpt from C Pam Zhang’s novel, Land of Milk and Honey. The author paints a bleak picture of a world without fresh produce, where staple ingredients like nuts, herbs, and avocados are nothing but a distant memory.
Zhang’s protagonist, a skilled chef, receives a letter informing her that her mother’s apartment in Los Angeles has burned down. The loss of her mother’s home serves as a metaphor for the larger issue at hand – the disappearance of diverse and vibrant cuisine in a state known for its culinary prowess.
As the cost of food skyrockets and borders close to refugees, restaurants are forced to adapt. The excerpt captures the frustration and desperation of a chef trying to create culinary wonders with limited resources. Pantry shelves are bare, menus are stripped down, and the vibrant flavors synonymous with California cuisine become nothing more than a distant dream.
With the announcement that pesto is being permanently cut from the menu, the chef faces an internal struggle. Should they continue in a profession they once loved, or abandon it altogether in search of a more sustainable future?
In a bid to escape the looming food crisis, the chef seizes an opportunity to become a private chef for an elite research community on the Italian-French border. The community’s objective is to bioengineer food crops that can withstand the smog and share these discoveries with the Italian government. It offers the promise of fresh produce and a chance to find renewed purpose in the culinary world.
However, the position comes with its own set of challenges. Diplomatic immunity allows the community to govern itself, and there are no guarantees of a long-term visa. The chef takes a gamble, supplementing their application with embellishments and lies, desperate for an opportunity to work with the ingredients they once took for granted.
As the excerpt comes to an end, the chef reflects on their decision. “I have nowhere on earth to return to,” they admit candidly. They are willing to do whatever it takes to pursue their passion, even if it means sacrificing their identity and integrity along the way.
Zhang’s powerful writing highlights the devastating impact of a food desert and the lengths that individuals are willing to go to in order to reclaim what they have lost. The excerpt serves as a stark reminder of the importance of preserving diverse and sustainable food systems, and the consequences that can arise when they are taken for granted.
Land of Milk and Honey, a highly anticipated novel from C Pam Zhang, explores themes of loss, resilience, and the pursuit of hope in a world turned upside down by a food crisis. The novel, published by Riverhead Books, is set to be released in 2023.