From Ski Slopes to Cheese-Soaked Bliss: Why Alpine Food is the Real Reward
A pursuit of Alpine excellence often leads not to athletic glory, but to the irresistible allure of raclette, fondue, and tartiflette. For one writer, the slopes are merely a convenient route between restaurants, a realization that underscores a simple truth: the heart of the Alpine experience lies in its rich, indulgent cuisine.
A Rocky Start on the Slopes
Skiing has never come naturally. More than four decades spent attempting Alpine mastery were marked by endurance rather than enjoyment, culminating in a memorable chairlift exchange. As one individual recounted, a polite attempt at conversation – “Do you like horses?” – was met with a surprising response: “Oui, with the fries.” That, effectively, ended ski school.
While still capable of navigating most slopes, even with the aid of a “glass or three of schnapps,” the writer’s style is generously described as “the man in the toilet.” The initial exhilaration of a pristine run, with soft snow and clear skies, is undeniable. However, skiing has evolved into a practical means of traversing the Alps, connecting one delectable restaurant to the next. It’s a realization that two skis are, at their core, a culinary transport system.
An Ode to Alpine Indulgence
Nothing rivals the joy of Alpine food. Not the latest James Lee Burke novel, nor a classic Rob Reiner film (RIP), nor even the first taste of tacos al pastor in Mexico City. Last year, in Verbier, Switzerland, a daily – often twice daily – indulgence in raclette reigned supreme. The “lusciously lovely, politely pongy cheese” was melted to order and draped over boiled baby potatoes, accompanied by crisp cornichons. The writer was so captivated that they transported half a wheel of the cheese back home, consuming it within weeks. While digestion protested, the pursuit of pleasure at any age is paramount.
“Asterix in Switzerland was always my favourite of all the books, simply for featuring a cheese-soaked orgy of a fondue,” the writer confessed, highlighting the cultural significance of these dishes.
Fondue, Tartiflette, and the Art of Stodge
If not raclette, it was fondue – copious amounts of bubbling cheese, enjoyed with stale bread in summer or amidst a blizzard in a pine-scented chalet. This is a dish that transcends seasonality. As one enthusiastic diner declared, “Bring on the cauldron of melted cheese!”
Then there’s tartiflette, an “exalted and exuberant stodge” of waxy potatoes, smoked pork, cream, and Reblochon cheese. While an onion and white wine offer a brief respite, it’s not a dish for a first date, given its lingering presence in the digestive system. “Hey ho,” the writer acknowledges, “such is the price of pure pleasure.”
The History of Tartiflette: A Marketing Triumph
Though the combination of potatoes, cheese, and onion has long been an Alpine tradition, the creation of tartiflette as we know it today is a relatively recent phenomenon. In the early 1980s, the Le Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Reblochon, recognizing the marketing potential, strategically developed tartiflette to boost cheese sales. Named after the local Savoyard waxy potato, the tartifle, it quickly became a classic of Haute-Savoie.
Purists insist on Reblochon, praising its “soft charm and gentle, nutty tang.” However, sourcing the genuine article, made with unpasteurised milk, has become challenging. The discovery of lumpy skin disease in French and Italian cattle (distinct from any psychedelic effects, despite the amusing thought) has temporarily halted raw-milk cheese imports.
Fortunately, adaptability is key. Raclette, fontina, Taleggio, Brie, Camembert, and Baron Bigod all make excellent substitutes. Any cheese that “oozes lasciviously when exposed to heat” will suffice. While La Ratte potatoes are ideal, any waxy variety will do. Tartiflette isn’t about precision; it’s about “beautiful ballast.”
Make Tartiflette at Home
Tartiflette, and the broader spectrum of Alpine cuisine, isn’t confined to the mountains. It’s a dish readily recreated at home. The following recipe, adapted from Matthew Ryle’s French Classics – a favorite of the writer and a work by the executive chef of Maison François in London – offers a taste of Alpine indulgence.
(Image credit: Alamy)
Tartiflette
Serves: 6
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
- 1kg waxy potatoes, ideally La Ratte, scrubbed but unpeeled
- 200g bacon
- 1 onion, finely sliced
- 100ml white wine
- 250g Reblochon cheese, chilled
- 300g crème fraîche
- Sea-salt flakes and fresh cracked black pepper
Method:
- Preheat the oven to 180˚C fan.
- Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold salted water, and simmer until cooked. Drain and cool slightly, then scrape off the skins and slice into 1-2cm thick coins.
- Cut the bacon into lardons and cook in a large frying pan until caramelized. Add the sliced onion and cook gently until softened. Add the white wine and reduce until almost evaporated. Season to taste.
- Cut the Reblochon wheel in half to form semicircles, then cut each semicircle in half through its equator (ensure the cheese is fridge-cold).
- Layer the tartiflette in an ovenproof pan: half the potatoes, half the onion mix, half the crème fraîche, and two cheese semicircles. Repeat, finishing with the remaining cheese semicircles, rind side up.
- Bake for approximately 20 minutes, or until hot, bubbling, and golden on top. Finish with fresh cracked black pepper and serve immediately.
Ultimately, tartiflette is a celebration of simple pleasures, a reminder that sometimes, the most rewarding destination is a table laden with cheese and potatoes.
