2024-08-02 05:50:33
The choice of ancient nature right in Spessart dates back almost a century. What finally succeeded in preserving the oak trees of thousands of years on the Rohrberg and near Weibersbrunn in 1928, after a long period of preparatory work, almost turned into the opposite. It is not because the abuse is done regardless of the security situation, but rather because the inherent laws of nature are ignored. An inventory at Weibersbrunner Nature Reserve (NSG) Metzger showed that of the hundreds of oak trees at that time, ten are still standing. The overgrown beech tree replaced everything.
It copes well with the climate change of Central Europe, but its dense canopy prevents rich understory plants, including oak. It also didn’t help that the NSG was expanded from seven to 14 hectares in 2006 to give the last granddads more air and electricity. Or should they be removed, as we are now considering, then every natural forest is ultimately a planted forest – even the seemingly pristine stands in Spessart.
Its symbolic tree is the oak tree. He benefited from the fact that the largest one, the Archdiocese of Mainz, had banned excommunication and statehood for centuries. The forest and its contents are an expression of their love for hunting – especially because of their status. The oak tree is raised mainly for wild food and tall growth as a tree. But it was not until later glass production that the forests were so exploited that the first heir of Mainz, the royal family of Bavaria, preferred the fast growing beech trees for regeneration.
Even in distant Munich, people appreciate the empty forests for hunting. Prince Regent Luitpold mainly traveled to hunt every year until 1912. The local history museum of Weibersbrunn shows photos of him gracefully putting out cigars. At that time there was unimaginable hardship behind a glass works that had existed for 150 years until 1862 could no longer compete with industrial products. The only Spessart road since 1960 makes it easy to connect to the general development.
The first capital today is unexpected. Large areas are turning into natural forests and waters into floodplains and biotopes, which are also home to beavers, as a guarantee of their existence. Even in the remote Breitsee, which was first dammed up to water logs, they are now carrying out what was otherwise taboo – falls work.
The modern landscape protection area cannot be seen far from NSG Metzger. This, in their lighthouse work for the idea of protection, is the real value of nature reserves in the beginning. Thanks to the experience gained on Rohrberg and in “Metzger”, it is now easy to judge whether one intervenes in the vegetation or lets it run wild. Without management, Spessart will be a pure beech forest in 100 years and thus it will return to the state of Central Europe before elimination.
Directions:
The place where you leave the car in Weibersbrunn is no different. We have chosen the eastern part as the starting point, in the area of the parish church, which was built in 1864 on the basis of glass works, and the local history museum, which can be found a few steps further. The bus coming from Aschaffenburg also stopped in front of him.
To start, next to the museum, take the W1 junction and turn into Pottaschenweg and soon after turn right from the valley into an inconspicuous road; First it leads above the circular gardens, then into the dense forest. Already there, although a long way from NSG Metzger, the beginnings of natural development can be seen. Fallen trees line the road, while the resurgent Steinbach is to the right.
This continues for some time until the wooden panels are exposed to the NSG. Three red and black boar marks point into the grade. For conservation and safety reasons, the road does not go through the forest as much. However, there are transfer senses, for example into trunks that are dead but still standing. Similar to a Spessart glass with studs, they sharpen plate-sized mushrooms, while those on the old wood below are reminiscent of giant whales.
When you get to the intersection, you have the option to stay at the same height for a shortcut. Then continue along the red triangle under the attractive beech trees to the Tanzplatz guide post at a crossroads. You can continue straight ahead or turn left to Weibersbrunn.
For the difference of taking on Breitsee, we turn right at the intersection in question. You can see two Nordic routes (purple and blue). In close unison, they first circled around Mount Steinknückel and then rolled significantly along the ridge. On this side too, the transition to a natural forest begins, so the spruce trees do not prevail, as is the case here. There are renewals with conifers that grow fast especially in Spessart.
After a good hour, the northern routes travel across a striking road. There it says right without any signs, with the bright crowns of the way of the horns coming the way out into the Breitbachtal. Immediately to the left, between the black spruce trees, you can access the Breitsee, 700 meters away. The second side is better because it offers better views of the meadow-like leaves. To do this, turn half right on the stream and left along the red diagonal line to the dam. Over there then to the right, past trees that have just been cut down by beavers.
The signs of a “Spessart robber” (green) that had appeared at the entrance followed us almost all the way back. Soon he left the depression on the left and after a kilometer on the way up, the surprise left him again in an indifferent way. The way up does not end there, but once again we are surrounded by fairy forest. Even without a security position, the forest is left to its own devices no less than NSG Metzger. The pale light even makes it appear a little more mysterious, continuing from the Königsweg guidepost, where the shortcuts arrive.
The beavers are here: the rodents come up the Hafenlohr from the Passage and soon reach the Breitsee which returns at the end of the valley.Thomas KleinThe forest only ends on a country road in front of a hospital. Crossed by the red butterfly sign, you pass the parking lot, exit to the left and immediately to Offenland. The path continues between forests and wooded islands in the upper area and then, after turning left and right, along the edge of the forest. The “Spessart robber” is left behind in favor of a Spessart cultural trail (blue with yellow stars). About a kilometer later you leave the butterfly on the road and it leads to the right to Weibersbrunn. Further down, half to the right, you arrive at the museum area.
Worth seeing
The main attraction in Spessart is nature, here NSG Metzger, which was chosen in 1928 to preserve the old oak trees. Today it is dominated by the beech tree, which is common everywhere. In addition, large areas of forest have been removed from cultivation and many rivers have been renovated, as well as stagnant waters such as the Breitsee, which were originally created to cool trunks. Here, as in other wetlands, beavers have found unknown territories. Weibersbrunn is a young town founded in the early 18th century for a glass works. Their high-quality products, mirrors and “moon (window)” glass, kept in the local museum, were widely sought after, but did not survive production. The Parish Church was built in 1864 on the foundations of a hut in a Neo-Gothic style.
opening hours
Directions
Take the A3 to Weibersbrunn junction; The journey begins in the older, eastern section to Rothenbuch; Park along the main street. There are bus connections to Aschaffenburg’s main station every two hours – especially on weekends.
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