2024-06-18 22:00:01
It was a mistake to think about Polaris Geographic a easy reissue of a classic: the piece is way bolder than it appears
The Polaris line is a historic assortment from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The producer reintroduced it in 2018, so this typical creation of the 60s awakened from its slumber. Already, as a result of classic trend usually invokes the glories of the previous from the Nineteen Twenties to the Nineteen Sixties, it’s a interval that’s usually thought of the apogee of fine watchmaking style: trendy classic.
However additionally it is a related thought as a result of these few years had been additionally the best geographical discoveries, explorations and ascents. By reviving its icon, Jaeger-LeCoultre concurrently summons the adventurous flare of at this time’s explorers, getting down to assault unknown lands in leather-based boots, woolen knits and mustaches blowing within the wind. Nevertheless, who says exploration, says journey, and so time zones. A world timer was due to this fact anticipated throughout the Polaris assortment: welcome to the Polaris “Geographic”.
Polaris Geographic © Jaeger-LeCoultre
Technically, the worldwide timer will not be troublesome to develop. Nevertheless, it may be troublesome to show in a transparent and legible means. It’s needed to have the ability to show, on the dial, a second set of hour and minute fingers, in addition to the 24 reference cities comparable to the 24 largest time zones.
This data is important to qualify the watch as a “world timer”. Nevertheless, they don’t seem to be all the time sufficient. That is why the Polaris Geographic goes additional. The 24 reference cities are embellished with a graphic notice that makes it attainable to tell apart between people who belong to summer time and people that don’t. They’re adjusted by the crown positioned at 10 o’clock, an asymmetry pricey to the Polaris assortment.
As well as, the second time zone, displayed at 6 o’clock, is flanked by a discreet day/evening window. It permits, for instance, to tell apart between 3 pm and three am, a helpful precision in order that your loved ones at dwelling will not be woken up by a sudden telephone name in the course of the evening.
Polaris Geographic © Jaeger-LeCoultre
Lastly, allow us to add that the motion is supplied with a cease seconds operate. This subtlety permits the seconds hand to be stopped whereas setting the time of the watch, which, within the case of a world timer, ensures that each time zones are set with the identical accuracy, to the closest second .
Aesthetically, the Polaris Geographic affords an uncommon “ocean grey” lacquer. The train will not be easy. It consists of depositing 4 layers of lacquer of various colours. They permit shades of grey and blue to specific themselves otherwise as we transfer in the direction of the middle of the dial. At least 30 further coats of translucent lacquer are required to guard and restore the total shine.
Polaris Geographic © Jaeger-LeCoultre
The distribution of the completely different capabilities of the watch can also be uncommon. A really discreet window opening for reference cities at 6 am might be not debated. However, the focus on the left a part of the facility reserve dial and the day / evening indicator may be shocking. The appropriate a part of the dial is empty. Relating to the facility reserve (70 hours), it might appear fairly disproportionate, and others will suggest the other to its excellent readability.
In the long run, this Polaris Geographic 42mm in a metal case exhibits what we most frequently search for in a watch: persona. It isn’t consensual. She accepts biases, she takes dangers, like her barely menacing marine dial. The asymmetry (the dial, the crowns) is accepted. It’s a character piece, already for mature collectors.
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