2023-11-03 03:14:37
“It’s so rare to see the sea like that, that we went and caught a few waves, it was fun,” enthuses Yann, in his wetsuit, clinging to his board. A few hours after the passage of storm Ciaran in Finistère, this Breton and two friends decided to dive a few meters from a crazy ocean to enjoy extremely rare series of waves in the port of Lesconil.
Sheltered by the dike, these three very experienced surfers spent around thirty minutes in the middle of a giant mist. Tiny silhouettes facing walls of foam. “You see the waves exploding above your head, that doesn’t happen often,” continues this local resident. “It would be scary to fall on the other side,” Dylan slips. He is a regular at “bizarre waves”. “I almost have a thesis on the subject,” jokes the American, who produces numerous videos on this subject on his YouTube channel.
The three acolytes do not consider that their detour in this storm, the most severe in Brittany since 1987, is particularly dangerous. “On the other side of the dike it’s dangerous, but here (in the port), it’s calm,” reassures Dylan Graves. The real difficulty of the day was found further inland, according to them: “To get there, it was a labyrinth through the trees lying on the road,” confides Gaëtan. “I’m more afraid of trees than waves,” adds his friend Yann.
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