2023-10-22 10:17:36
It seems that crises are the best times to reinvent yourself. And the Bordeaux wine industry has plenty to do at the moment. The year 2023 is marked by mildew (this algae which attacks the vines) which results in a drop in yield and, an imminent uprooting to reduce the size of the vineyard in chronic overproduction (or under-commercialization). The icing on the vineyard: the drop in consumption of red wine internationally is particularly damaging to Bordeaux, more than 80% red.
According to a study on consumer expectations with 200 people, led by the Bordeaux wine interprofessional council (CIVB), Bordeaux are “appreciated” but not “very appreciated”. “They expect more fruitiness, more sweetness without wanting sweet wines,” explains Charlotte Liadouze, from the French Institute of Vine and Wine (IFV). If the oak is blended it is accepted, but they are not necessarily looking for it for a Bordeaux.”
This Friday, the vinopôle, applied research center in viticulture and oenology, brought together several players in the sector to discuss possible developments to appeal to these consumers whose tastes have changed. Less alcoholic or sparkling wines, grape juice and table grapes, no avenue is left aside even if some are niche markets.
Bubbles and less alcoholic wines
In recent years, the wines produced tend to be more concentrated but also higher in alcohol. Against this production, the IFV works to reduce the alcohol content, while offering a satisfactory aromatic quality. “Today, we have techniques that can reduce the alcohol content of wines by 20%,” reports Emmanuel Vinsonneau, oenology project manager at the IFV. This is an operation which is regulatory if it remains within the specifications of the appellations of controlled origin (AOC) concerned. How will consumers react to this market? We don’t know yet, even if the health argument could convince some.
The redhead is in trouble and we are looking for alternatives. Some winegrowers would like to turn to sparkling wine. “They are on the rise because they have a festive and refreshing side,” comments Caroline Fleur, director of the Oenocentres group, an oenological analysis laboratory. They have a slightly luxurious note, like champagnes.” If red grape varieties can serve as a basis for these sparkling wines, the winemaking methods are very different (fining, discoloration, pressing, etc.) and the oenologists are a little helpless. They ask the vinopôle to provide technical support.
Grapes in juice or to chew
“It works less well than orange juice,” says Françoise Ligou, diversification and territory advisor at the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture. Grape juice is not a big sector but it could make it possible to make profitable vines that are currently undervalued. “The advantage in Gironde is that we have a lot of different grape varieties and that to make grape juice, we have the choice we need for a balance of sugar and acidity,” adds Françoise Ligou.
In France, we import three quarters of table grapes, so there is a market to be had. Only two AOCs exist, Chasselas and Muscat, Bordeaux could take its place, perhaps betting on varieties resistant to mildew, which already exist. “We could consider over-grafting to test the varieties, it would cost 1,000 to 2,000 euros per hectare,” predicts the advisor to the Chamber of Agriculture. But it is difficult to find grafts.” In the room, some professionals look doubtful, wondering about the cost price of these diversifications which have not enjoyed the same prestige as wine.
But in this matter it is now the consumer who dictates his tastes, according to Jean-Marie Cardebat, economist and professor at the University of Bordeaux. It is no longer experts who call the shots, but applications (like vivino) powered by consumer opinions and artificial intelligence. “Out of 70,000 French red wines studied, we have a weight of the consumer rating on the price of the wine which is double compared to that of the experts,” he says. Enough to give food for thought to a sector that is looking for a new lease of life.
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