Was Goethe’s “Journey to Italy” just an educational trip? The inhabitants of Lake Garda saw it differently. In September 1786 the poet visited the castle of Malcesine. When he manages to pass, an angry crowd awaits him.
If today lake Garda is still firmly in the hands of German tourists,it is indeed not only due to Johann Wolfgang Goethe,but also to him. On his journey through Italy, the Olympian stopped at the lake and sailed south on a small sailboat. In several villages a board indicates this to inform tourists. In malcesine on the eastern shore we read “Hinc JW Goethe id. Sept.MDCCLXXXVI arcem delineavit”, in German: “JW Goethe designed the castle here in September 1786”. This is only half the truth set in stone; as goethe reports in “A Journey to Italy”, “a dangerous adventure” occurred in enemy territory . on charges of espionage!
On 13 September Goethe was forced to land in Malcesine,a sudden headwind was too strong. In the morning he went to the half-dilapidated one Scaligerunlike today, there were no gates or security personnel. He found “a very comfortable place” in the courtyard. While the visitor drew the tower and the walls, people came, looked, went out, came back. Murmurs arose. “The crowd was growing.” A man “not of great repute” asked “in vulgar Venetian language” what it was about? Goethe didn’t understand and talked about art. The man then grabbed the drawing “with Italian calm” and tore it up. It’s not allowed here, stop it.
A military object
A woman called the Podestà, the local official. When he, around the age of 30, “not exactly gaunt”, introduced himself to the actuary, the court clerk, Goethe was still in a good mood. But the official explained with “the dull features of his senseless face” that, decay and open doors or not, the local fortress was therefore a military object.
Goethe praised the beauty of monuments of all kinds, just think of the glorious ruins of Rome or Verona. You can probably draw them! The actuary briefly said that here on lake Garda was the border between the territory of Venice and the imperial Austrian state and “thus it should not be spied on”. Emperor Joseph is a troubled gentleman who “certainly has many evil plans against the Republic of Venice.” Goethe was therefore his subject who spied on the borders.
Goethe was not unarmed,he carried with him his small muzzle-loading pistol “which you could easily put in your pocket”. But he went with the strongest thing he had. He talked and told stories. “’Far away,’ I exclaimed,” he was himself a citizen of a republic and came from Frankfurt am Main, a city “whose name and reputation have certainly reached you.” That was his salvation, because a “pretty young woman” immediately joyfully shouted “Frankfurt!” Thay should call Gregorio, who knows the city on the Main well and has worked there.
Gregory, in his fifties, then spoke to Goethe about the famous Frankfurt families. Goethe told of marriages, children, grandchildren and that was the turning point. Gregory advised us to let go of the artistic man. “I have reinforced these stunning words by praising the territory, the situation and the inhabitants, without forgetting the courtiers as wise and prudent men”, we read generously in the “journey to Italy”.
This is how the poet escaped arrest and perhaps imprisonment for espionage. Instead, he received a fruit basket with “the ripest grapes” from Gregory before setting sail on the sailing ship for new adventures.
It is said that all writers’ lives are made of paper. In this series we provide evidence to the contrary. 111 action scenes grouped together are now also available as a book.
What were teh major themes explored by Goethe in “Journey to Italy” during his visit to Lake Garda?
Interview Between Time.news Editor and Expert on Goethe’s “Journey to Italy”
time.news Editor (TNE): Welcome to our segment today. We’re diving into an intriguing chapter of literary history—Johann Wolfgang Goethe’s “Journey to Italy.” Hear with me is Dr. Elisa Hartmann, a Goethe scholar and cultural historian. Dr. Hartmann, thank you for joining us!
dr. Elisa Hartmann (EH): Thank you for having me! I’m excited to discuss this fascinating journey and its impact on the cultural landscape of Italy and beyond.
TNE: Let’s start with the context. goethe undertook this journey in 1786,which sounds like a classic educational trip. But evidence suggests it was anything but peaceful. Can you tell us more about the circumstances surrounding his visit to Lake Garda?
EH: Absolutely. While many view Goethe’s trip as a pursuit of enlightenment, the reality was far more intricate. In September 1786,when he arrived at malcesine,he unwittingly crossed into a region fraught with political tension. At that time, Italy was fragmented, with various states and foreign powers vying for control. Goethe found himself in “enemy territory,” facing accusations of espionage,which led to a rather confrontational reception from the local populace.
TNE: That’s quite remarkable! The notion of a cultural figure like Goethe being seen as a spy is both surprising and enlightening. How did this risky reception affect his journey and his writings?
EH: It considerably colored his perspective. In his account, Goethe describes the anger of the crowd, reflecting their suspicions towards outsiders. This encounter enhanced the drama of his narrative—a combination of beauty and danger. His experiences shaped not just his personal reflections, but also his literary output. He conveyed the interplay of nature, art, and political strife in a way that resonates with readers even today.
TNE: Fascinating. You’ve mentioned that his journey has had lasting effects beyond 1786. What legacy did Goethe leave at Lake Garda, especially in places like Malcesine?
EH: Indeed, Goethe’s visit essentially put certain towns like Malcesine on the literary map. Today,tourists flock there,partly because of his mention in “A Journey to Italy.” The local boards that commemorate his sketches of the castle are part of a broader heritage that informs visitors about Goethe’s influence. It has turned into an intersection of tourism, literature, and history. Ironically, though Goethe faced hostility, his legacy has contributed to the charm of the area, making it a celebrated destination.
TNE: That’s a perfect example of how literature can transform a location. Given that Lake Garda remains popular, especially among German tourists, how do you see Goethe’s legacy evolving in the years to come?
EH: As globalization continues, I believe Goethe’s influence will only deepen. His exploration of Italy offers insights into cross-cultural interactions that are still relevant. future generations may reinterpret his journey, considering modern themes like environmentalism and identity. Moreover,the site itself has become a canvas for ongoing historical narratives,with the potential to engage new audiences through innovative approaches in tourism and education.
TNE: It sounds like Goethe’s “Journey to Italy” will continue to be a relevant topic for both literary enthusiasts and travelers alike. Thank you,Dr. Hartmann, for shedding light on this multifaceted journey. Any final thoughts you’d like to share with our readers?
EH: I’d encourage everyone to explore not just the literary texts,but also the historical and cultural contexts surrounding them. When you visit places like Lake Garda, think about the stories that have unfolded there and the authors that were inspired by their experiences.
TNE: Wise words! Thank you, Dr.Hartmann, for joining us today and sharing your insights on Goethe’s unforgettable journey.
EH: Thank you for having me!
