2023-07-15 16:30:00
This expression of peasant origin was born at the end of the 19th century. Its history is intimately linked to that of the dairy trade in France.
By Sophie Hienard In the 19th century, butter became an index of social hierarchy. © Shutterstock Published on 07/15/2023 at 4:30 p.m.
The formula, high in calories, becomes almost a mathematical problem. Sell the butter, collect the money, run out of butter. Either keep the butter, get no money but get the butter. Can we have the butter and the money for the butter? No. This is the meaning of the expression: to obtain everything, without any consideration, seems impossible. So you have to choose.
Why do we say: “Want the butter, the money for the butter”, and incidentally, “the smile of the creamer”, because we will favor the “soft” version? Although it is difficult to date this expression, it seems that it appeared at the end of the 19th century, in the peasant milieu. Butter was then considered a wealth, a noble material. More than a day was needed to separate the cream from the milk. It was then necessary to churn it, beat it, to obtain butter.
READ ALSOWhy do we say “picnic”? In the 19th century, a social hierarchy arose based on where butter came from and how fresh it was, according to an article by rural geographer Claire Delfosse. The wealthiest families had the freshest possible butter at their tables.
It was preferably made in Normandy, rich in aromas and above all not very salty – there was not yet a Breton lobby. The task was difficult: the perishable product was difficult to transport in the event of heat, and the addition of salt allowed better preservation.
Lard and oil dethroned
The use of butter became more democratized after 1865 when Louis Pasteur invented his method of preservation, pasteurization. Then, around the 1890s, the cream separator facilitated the recovery of the cream, which was now done in one hour.
READ ALSOWhat is the difference between the traditional baguette and the classic baguette? Manufacturing costs were thus reduced, which made dairy even more popular. Finally, the invention of refrigerated wagons made it possible for butter to get on board. Wafers have thus conquered French territory, dethroning even lard and oil.
Many expressions are attached to this dairy product. Like “making butter”, which means earning a living or even “putting butter in your spinach” when you improve your income, your situation and your living conditions. On the other hand, the expression “not even butter” does not exist.
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