A family of farmers and farmers, the Vasilakos have always served in their tavern only what they produce: from mutton on the coals and lamb on the spit to frigadella, sourdough bread from their wheat, cheese and vegetables.
Vangelis Vasilakos is not just a tavern keeper. He is primarily a miller, breeder and farmer and brings to his tavern in Polydendri, the old Mazi, only what he produces.
Around him are his wheat fields, about 5,000 acres, with zea, mauragani, gremenia and a couple of other old local varieties, which he grinds in his stone mill (a beautiful structure with wooden lining) and with his flours, all whole wheat, he kneads cheese bread and his famous, theorized Arvanite loaves, sourdough bread of course, with a firm and fragrant crumb that insatiably absorbs the juices of the baked goods on the plate.
The specialty of the Vasilakos tavern is grilled and grilled meats, all with raw material from his flocks and farms. The Vasilakos, a family of chief shepherds of the area, many generations ago, and it was in 1936 when grandfather Vangelis Vasilakos opened the tavern, in the same place where it is today, and served roasts from his flocks. Grandfather Vangelis also had buffaloes, which were slaughtered on December 20, the pieces were hung salted and wrapped in turban in the frost – “it was cold then in Kapandriti and Mazi, not like now when we have spring in the middle of winter” – and they served them first meze from February 20 onwards, when the Halloween fell.
Everything the namesake grandson does today, he steps in his grandfather’s footsteps as much as he can. The mutton, the eternal dish of the Attic countryside, is here served in juicy ribs on the coals. But they also make Arvanitiko sausage, meaty, babatsiko, with only a few spices, served on a wooden board with its lemonade – only sheep sausage is served here. Lamb ribs and steaks are also served on the tables, all grilled on coals, and come with family-produced potatoes, cut by hand and fried in olive oil. Depending on the season, the corresponding salads are also served: in this season, cabbage and lettuce from the family vegetable garden, but also wild mushrooms gathered from the surrounding area, boiled, with oil and lemon.
On the weekends, the spit with lamb and chicken comes to the fore and on weekdays with short spit – needless to say, everything that is roasted comes from the family’s herds. These herds give a lot to the tavern. The feta, served raw or thinly sliced with olive oil from the family olive grove, the tzatziki with sheep’s yogurt from the bag, the tyrokauteri with feta and mixed yogurt. They also serve frigadelia, charcoal-grilled liver with its sweets. “In the past, you know, frigadelia accompanied all celebrations, from weddings and christenings to large agricultural works,” says Vangelis Vasilakos. “It was the first meze we made for every festive occasion. People celebrated then, family and friends gathered, and no matter how big a job was done, it was also a celebration. Now we’re kind of closed in on ourselves and we don’t enjoy what we’re doing.”
Vasilakos Tavern 4 Irenes Ave., Polydendri, tel. 22950-52317.
On your way out, don’t forget to buy the packaged wholemeal flour from Mylos Vasilakou, in six different old varieties.
2024-02-17 17:00:00