2024-04-17 11:13:34
Acne has a real DNA, a clear signature that sets it apart from other fashion brands. That was exactly my goal for the perfume. I wanted to create a scent that felt a bit like those big, thick Acne scarves or the chunky knit sweaters that I associate with the brand. When you imagine the cold weather in Stockholm, you immediately want to escape into a warm cocoon. So I imagined a perfume that would give you the feeling of being wrapped up. The result is a fragrance accord that is somewhat reminiscent of detergent smells, i.e. something clean, but gradually becomes a floral cocoon of aldehydes, powdery notes, pleasant sandalwood and lots of musky tones.
Isn’t the thought of detergent in a perfume rather negative?
Many people don’t know this, but the scent of detergent ultimately comes from perfumery. Detergent manufacturers are often inspired by the structures of fine perfumery. For example, the formulas of Sophia Grojsman, who designed Trésor for Lancôme in the 1990s, have been widely imitated for fabric softener scents. This silky, powdery, very soft, enveloping texture of violets matches the feeling that fresh laundry is supposed to convey. For Acne, I found it interesting to revisit this type of handwriting and modernize it.
The 32-year-old Frenchwoman Suzy le Helley designed the fragrance for Acne Studios.Frederic Malle
They dared to use notes that had long been out of fashion. It is a floral aldehyde scent that is a bit reminiscent of the classic perfumes of old, like Chanel No. 5 or Arpège. How does a contemporary brand like Acne fit in with our grandmothers’ perfumes?
For me, Acne is more than just contemporary. If you look at the collection from ten years ago, they still look current. It’s similar with Chanel No. 5. It’s a formula that I think will never go out of style. It is still interesting today, over 100 years later. I was wondering what a scent like that might look like today. Working with Frédéric Malle involved using contemporary raw materials that were not known at the time, so that it would look chic but also modern and not smell like your grandmother.
What ingredients did you use to transport the scent into today?
We tried to make it more multi-faceted and floral, with roses and violets. But fruity peach notes also make it appear younger.
When you think of Acne, you think of high-quality, but sometimes also pointed fashion that is not always easy to wear. Does this also apply to perfume?
I don’t think it’s hard to wear, but you certainly have to have a certain personality for it. Nowadays, thousands of new perfumes are released every year. You have to manage to stand out from the crowd, make a perfume that is unlike any other and find your own identity.
With the risk of not pleasing everyone…
And that’s okay. I believe that you don’t have to convince all of humanity to make a good perfume, on the contrary. I’d rather have fewer customers who are happy to buy it than everyone saying it smells good but no one really adopting it.
What do you think makes a good perfume?
The fact that you can distinguish it from others! At the risk of repeating myself, I really think designing a fragrance with its own personality is the most difficult exercise. The second point is performance. Because even if you manage to create a scent that is good and different, if it disappears after a short time, I consider that a weakness. With the prices you pay for perfumes these days, I think the customer should get something for their money.
#good #perfume #shouldnt