You’ll be able to’t get sufficient of this vogue

2024-06-14 08:44:04

After which he got here, not with a triumphant gesture, however very calmly. The not very lengthy and nice nerdy Pierre-Louis Mascia had not determined to be the spotlight of the boys’s vogue truthful Pitti Uomo in Florence. In spite of everything, the London designer Paul Smith is already there, and the Milanese clothier Carolina Castiglioni offered her males’s designs for the primary time along with her vogue model Plan C. And final however not least, a whole bunch of manufacturers are presenting their collections for spring and summer season 2025 on the Fortezza da Basso showroom.

Marine Serre is certainly set because the spotlight of the week. So extra on Pierre-Louis Mascia later. The world’s largest males’s vogue commerce present gives the Serre Wednesday night, one of the best time. The French designer, who additionally gives menswear, has been creating his “eco-futurism” since 2016, an eclectic mixture of basic French couture designs, sportswear references and recycled materials.

The ambiance for his or her nice look couldn’t be higher. The fifteenth century Villa di Maiano in Fiesole is a novel location – James Ivory filmed among the scenes within the film Room with a View right here 4 years in the past. The view of Florence is one of the best as the sensation of escaping from town because the narrators from Boccaccio’s “Decameron” as soon as did, who went to the hills due to the plague of 1348 and informed their tales close by.

Common-Anzeiger and baker Schlüter can count on catwalk promoting

Marine Serre desires to proceed his personal story this night – by additionally releasing males’s vogue. The number of colours and designs present that recycling previous supplies does not should look unhappy, however it can be wonderful. He confirmed a shirt with the title “100 years of the Common-Anzeiger”, an commercial for the newspaper from Rhauderfehn in East Frisia, which was based in 1988. Baker Schlüter from Halstenbek close to Hamburg also can count on a catwalk commercial.

He did not even discover the German prints: a coat by the designer Marine SerreHelmut Fricke

The place did the designer get such garments from? Marine Serre seems confused after the present: “German titles? I did not even see it!” So you may depend your self fortunate that he did not promote something ugly and even forbidden together with his previous garments – however as an alternative, for instance, for the farm store and furnishings by Günter Schultz from Werder an der Havel.

Ought to Marine Serre actually be “the one” who can take over as head designer at Chanel, because the critic Suzy Menkes famous after the present, as a result of she has been seen as an awesome prospect since profitable the LVMH Younger Designer Prize in 2017? It will not come to that. It might take loads of water flowing down the Arno and much more water down the Seine for a designer who does not know her personal kinds to succeed Virginie Viard at Chanel.

An incredible eye for colour and design

There isn’t a query: this night will probably be remembered for the necessary effort to carry recycled supplies into the tradition, for the change of thirty-two years, for the nice air in Fiesole and after-third with the view of Florence.

Above the hills of Florence: Marine Serre presents its males’s assortment.Helmut Fricke

After which there’s. The true spotlight of the week might be found in Florence on Wednesday night. Pierre-Louis Mascia exhibited his designs within the Tepidarium Giacomo Roster, a big greenhouse the place grass vegetation develop and butterflies fly. Pierre Louis Mascia? Even cultural specialists have by no means heard of French whose father was Italian. No marvel: he grew up in Toulouse and labored so much in Italy. And in case you are not in Paris, you have no idea it in Paris.

In any case, Pierre-Louis Mascia has a tremendous eye for colours and patterns. It appears to throw them sarcastically on the garments: floral patterns, sober checks, vintage scenes, oriental references, “Mascia” prints, then stripes once more, horizontally and vertically and every part combined. As if the silk prints and knits weren’t sufficient, he threw a fringed foulard over the fashions’ shoulders. You’ll be able to’t get sufficient of this vogue.

It was her first catwalk present

Are you able to write one thing like that? Mascia claims backstage that you do not select the style, it simply involves you. He began as an assistant to the product designer Luigi Collani. He later labored as a vogue photographer. “At one level I began with curtains and now I’ve a model.” It was based in 2008. It already has two shops in Italy and provides many shops everywhere in the world. And right here and right this moment is actually his first catwalk present.

You wish to make your self understood by printing: design by Pierre-Louis MasciaHelmut Fricke

You make your self understood with typing, simply as others do with phrases. By finding out them, he obtained to know different cultures, he stated. You’ll be able to embrace this model assortment within the type of colours, beads and prints. There isn’t a white and black right here. Geometric patterns meet botanical supplies, colours like purple and orange meet as Yves Saint Laurent as soon as did, earthenware alternates with vivid and glossy supplies.

And in case you are speaking about filling the designer areas, then it is best to take into account looking Florence for probably the most lovely area in Paris. Dries Van Noten is retiring from his namesake model later this month. It isn’t simply the 4 “palms” emojis by colour grasp Christian Lacroix beneath Mascia’s publish that praises the concept that there’s a new candidate to succeed Dries.