Bang Reopens in Dublin, Delivering a Confident and Creative Iberian Experience
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A revitalized Bang restaurant on Merrion Row is captivating diners with a menu that showcases Iberian flavors through a distinctly modern lens, earning praise for its sophisticated cuisine and inviting atmosphere.
Bang, located at 11 Merrion Row, Dublin 2, has reopened under the direction of Eric Matthews in the kitchen and Richie Barrett managing the front of house. The restaurant, which operates across two levels, offers a dining experience that prioritizes substance over showmanship, resulting in a space that encourages lingering and a menu that consistently surprises.
A Bold Start and Iberian Inspiration
The dining experience at Bang begins with a striking paradox: an amuse-bouche that is so compelling it threatens to overshadow everything that follows. The Lissadell cockles escabeche with fresh cheese (€12) is described as deceptively simple, yet delivers a complex interplay of flavors – cool cream cheese, sweet onions, and a precise vinegar edge from the cockles. “There is a deep savouriness running through the bite, an umami note that takes a moment to place,” one diner observed. The source of this umami remains a closely guarded secret, playfully referred to as “Secrets of Fatima.”
What sets Bang apart is its approach to Iberian cuisine. Rather than relying on predictable staples, the menu demonstrates a quiet confidence, focusing on quality ingredients and innovative techniques. While classics like jamón, croquettes, and tortilla are present, they are executed with a unique twist. Notably absent are the ubiquitous gildas, a deliberate choice that signals the restaurant’s intention to forge its own path.
Ambiance and Atmosphere
The restaurant’s interior contributes significantly to its appeal. The upstairs mezzanine is lighter and more open, featuring a semi-open kitchen and bar seating. Downstairs, the atmosphere is moodier, with terracotta walls, red wallpaper, and a wooden chequerboard wall accented with gold. The space is adorned with ceramics and album covers, ranging from David Bowie to Meatloaf, and features deep, comfortable banquettes. “It’s a room you settle into quickly, and you stay longer than planned,” a reviewer noted.
The menu at Bang is thoughtfully curated, with a strong emphasis on wines that complement the food rather than compete with it. Sommelier Victor Baquero guides diners through a modern, Iberian-focused wine list, with most bottles ranging from €55 to €75, featuring producers like Rafael Palacios, Comando G, and Filipa Pato. A Dominio de Tares Mencía (€60) from Bierzo is highlighted as an excellent pairing.
Dishes like the fideuà with red mullet (€14) showcase the kitchen’s skill and restraint. The fish is perfectly cooked, and the tomato-based sauce, clinging to the short pasta, is flavorful without being overly rich. This approach, honed in Michelin-starred kitchens, is evident throughout the menu.
The tortilla “Cal Pep” (€14.50), inspired by the renowned Cal Pep in Barcelona, features Gubbeen chorizo in place of jamón, resulting in a richer, more pronounced flavor profile balanced by a slick of alioli. The morcilla (black pudding, €16), made in-house with bomba rice, offers a crumbly texture and is complemented by borlotti beans, quince, and a 10-year-old sherry vinegar sauce.
From the “over fire” section, the half piri piri chicken from Ring’s Farm (€24) boasts treacle-dark, crisp skin and juicy, flavorful flesh. The Ballymakenny Markies potato “bravas” (€7) are equally impressive, crisp-edged and laced with alioli and paprika sauce.
A Playful Dessert and Lasting Impression
Dessert presents a daring combination: an 82 per cent chocolate mousse served with jamón Ibérico fat caramel (€12), topped with a hazelnut tuille and finished with Pedro Ximénez. While the sweetness initially masks the savory note, the dish is described as more interesting than successful. The chef’s approach is contrasted with Nuno Mendes’ bolder egg yolk and pork fat custard at Lisboeta, which is praised for its commitment to challenging flavors.
Ultimately, Bang is not a nostalgic tribute to Iberian cuisine, but a creative and disciplined exploration of its flavors. Dinner for two, including a bottle of wine, costs approximately €152.50. The restaurant sources ingredients from Peter Hannan, Glenmar, Wrights of Marino, Ballymakenny, and Artisan Foods. Vegetarian options include winter leek with smoked Ballylisk and watermelon radish, and roast sweetheart cabbage with lentils and delica pumpkin.
The verdict is clear: Bang offers a confident menu, a serious wine list, and a room designed for lingering. While the restaurant currently lacks wheelchair accessibility, its overall experience is one of refined dining and thoughtful execution. The background music, a blend of La Brigida Orquesta with Ana Tijoux, hip hop, and rap, adds to the relaxed and sophisticated ambiance.
