The Lowell’s Majorelle: A New Standard for Destination Hotel Dining
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A growing trend sees hotels boasting restaurants worth traveling for, and Rachel Johnson discovers a prime example at The Lowell in New York City, where Majorelle offers a complex escape from the typical hotel dining experience.
The hotel restaurant, once relegated to a sad, sales-conference vibe, has undergone a renaissance. Just as the Victoria and Albert Museum was once described as an “ace caff with quite a nice museum attached,” a wealth of hotels now offer dining experiences that are the reason to visit – or even stay. This is the dream: a seamless transition from room to lobby to a fabulous restaurant, all without the need for outerwear.
This column sets out to discover these hidden gems, starting with a trip to The Lowell in New York. the journey itself, involving a flight from London’s Terminal 5 and a bus ride to newark, was prefaced by a reluctant movie viewing with a travel companion. (“In the summer of 1930, the Crawleys grapple with the threat of social disgrace when Mary is the subject of public scandal…”) But the destination promised a reward.
the Lowell, located in a prime upper East Side location, delivered on that promise. The corner suite offered a perfect blend of comfort and elegance – decor, antiques, Taschen books, and a fireplace all contributed to a feeling of home, albeit a significantly cleaner and more luxurious one. A celebratory glass of champagne preceded a well-deserved nap.
A Discreetly Chic Dining Experience
The real joy came with a descent to Majorelle, escaping the -8C New York winter without even needing a coat. “Ah, Majorelle,” remarked notably cool New York friends, “We go there frequently enough. One of our favourites.” The restaurant operates on a first-come, first-served basis, even for hotel guests. Majorelle’s cuisine blends traditional French techniques with Mediterranean and Moroccan influences.
Unlike the “see-and-be-seen” venues downtown like Waverly Inn or Balthazar, Majorelle offers an upscale, uptown ambiance. It’s a place for significant meetings – a son’s fiancée’s parents,or a quiet assignation – described as “Manhattan’s best-kept secret.”
The dining room, guided by Jacques, a tall Frenchman, is airy and flower-filled, with a white stone floor, mirrors, trellises, and tinkling water features. The atmosphere is lively and inviting.
A Norman Connection and Exquisite Cuisine
The author’s companion, ivo, engaged the waiter, Boris, in a conversation about their shared Norman ancestry.Ivo’s ancestors arrived with william the Conqueror from Aulnay, anglicizing their name from d’Aulnay to Dawnay. Remarkably, Boris also hailed from Aulnay.
The meal itself was a triumph. Boris recommended a chalky chablis to accompany the starters: a vol-au-vent and a griddled foie gras. The foie gras, described as “so pink it was almost twitching,” paired beautifully with pear and gingerbread, showcasing Chef Thual’s mastery. Poached Maine lobster with fennel and green apple, and Ivo’s plump Dover sole, followed, culminating in a banana and caramel tart and chestnut soufflé. The prix fixe menu is offered at £110 for two courses and £127 for three, with sides at £11 each.
The experience concluded with strong coffee, pancakes, and Canadian bacon in the hotel, the only flaw being the inability to read The wall Street journal due to the flattering lighting. As yogi Berra wisely said, “When you come to a fork in the road, take it.” Especially if it leads you to the Lowell.
Rachel Johnson was a guest of The Lowell, which has B&B doubles from £925 (lowellhotel.com).
