The scent hits you long before the sight does—a heavy, toasted aroma of sesame seeds that cuts through the damp air of a traditional Korean market. For decades, the bangatgan, or traditional oil mill, has been the rhythmic heartbeat of these neighborhoods, where the mechanical drone of the press and the cloud of nutty steam are simply parts of the daily backdrop. But lately, a new demographic has been pausing in these narrow alleys: Japanese tourists, smartphones in hand, captivated by the slow, visceral process of extracting oil from seed.
This emerging trend, colloquially dubbed the “Bangatgan Tour,” represents a subtle but significant shift in how international visitors, particularly those from Japan, are consuming Korean culture. While the first wave of tourism was driven by the neon lights of Myeong-dong and the polished choreography of K-pop, today’s travelers are seeking what they call “deep Korea”—the unvarnished, sensory experiences of local life that cannot be replicated in a shopping mall.
Having reported from the bustling souks of Cairo to the spice markets of Southeast Asia, I have seen how food becomes a primary bridge for diplomacy and cultural understanding. In the case of the Korean oil mill, the appeal is not just the product, but the performance of authenticity. For the Japanese visitor, who often values precision and artisanal craftsmanship, the sight of raw seeds being roasted to a golden brown and then pressed into a thick, amber liquid is a form of industrial poetry.
The Allure of the ‘Slow’ Process
The fascination stems from a desire for transparency and provenance. In an era of mass-produced, store-bought condiments, the bangatgan offers a return to the source. Japanese tourists are increasingly drawn to the “slow food” movement, prioritizing the health benefits of freshly pressed oils over the convenience of processed alternatives.
The experience is deeply tactile. Visitors often watch the seeds being cleaned and roasted in large vats, a process that releases an intense fragrance that fills the street. The climax occurs at the press, where the oil emerges as a warm, viscous stream. Many tourists report that tasting the oil immediately after pressing—often provided as a small sample by the vendor—reveals a depth of flavor that is lost once the product is bottled and shelved.
This trend is amplified by social media, particularly TikTok and Instagram, where short-form videos of the oil-pressing process serve as “ASMR” for the eyes and ears. The rhythmic clanking of the machinery and the visual flow of the oil create a satisfying loop that encourages others to seek out these “hidden” spots in markets like Gwangjang or Mangwon.
Nutritional Value and the Health Connection
The interest is not purely aesthetic. There is a strong health-conscious component to these visits, particularly regarding perilla oil (deul-gireum). While sesame oil is prized for its aroma, perilla oil is increasingly recognized for its high concentration of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3 fatty acid that supports heart health and reduces inflammation.
Japanese consumers, who already have a culture of incorporating healthy fats into their diet, view these traditional Korean mills as a way to acquire high-potency, additive-free nutrients. The “freshness” of the oil is the primary selling point; the shorter the time between pressing and consumption, the lower the risk of oxidation, preserving the integrity of the nutrients.
| Oil Type | Primary Flavor Profile | Key Health Benefit | Common Culinary Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sesame Oil | Nutty, Intense, Toasted | Rich in Antioxidants | Seasoning, Dipping sauces |
| Perilla Oil | Mild, Earthy, Floral | High Omega-3 (ALA) | Stir-fries, Traditional soups |
Economic Ripples in the Traditional Market
For the owners of these mills, many of whom are elderly artisans who have operated the same machinery for decades, the influx of foreign tourists is an unexpected windfall. These businesses, which once relied solely on local residents, are now finding a new revenue stream in the “experience economy.”
The impact is twofold. First, there is a direct increase in sales as tourists purchase small, high-quality bottles to take home. Second, there is a psychological boost; the validation from international visitors reinforces the value of a trade that younger Koreans have largely abandoned in favor of corporate careers. The bangatgan is no longer just a utility; it is becoming a cultural landmark.
However, this surge also brings challenges. Many of these vendors do not speak English or Japanese, and the lack of formal packaging or labeling can make the transaction a game of gestures and translation apps. Despite this, the shared language of food and craftsmanship usually bridges the gap.
“They don’t just buy the oil; they watch the process for twenty minutes,” one market vendor noted. “They look at the seeds, they smell the air, and they take photos. I didn’t know people would travel from another country just to see a press, but it makes me proud of my work.”
Note: The health information provided regarding omega-3 fatty acids and perilla oil is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Please consult a healthcare provider for dietary changes.
As the South Korean government continues to promote “localism” as a key pillar of its tourism strategy, the focus is expected to shift further away from metropolitan hubs toward regional markets. The next confirmed milestone in this cultural shift will be the upcoming series of “Traditional Market Modernization” reports from the Ministry of SMEs and Startups, which are expected to detail how heritage businesses can better integrate digital payment systems and multilingual signage to accommodate the growing number of international “slow-tourists.”
We invite you to share your thoughts in the comments: Have you visited a traditional market in Korea, or do you seek out artisanal producers when you travel? Share this story with those who love the intersection of food and culture.
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